Saturday, February 27, 2010
What are the best painting supplies to use as far as brand? Brushes, rollers, sprayers,etc.. Thnx Alot!!! -Tom?
visit Lowe's or Home Depot -the variety is many. ask the rep for help.microsoft
Painting - Rollers vs Airless Sprayer?
Hi, I'm moving into a new house in a couple weeks and I'm planning paint 4 rooms right away. The rooms are decent size and I'm painting both the walls and trim (different colors). I received some estimates and they came in around $1,000, so I'm going to try and do it myself.
I've never painted before, but watched many people do it and it doesn't look to bad. I'm looking for feedback on which tool(s) would give me the best and quickest results. I have no problem spending money on a airless sprayer, power roller or any other tools. What would be my best option?Painting - Rollers vs Airless Sprayer?
Don't use the airless inside. You have to mask everything, and I mean everything that you don't want to get paint on, You also have to isolate the surrounding rooms. If you forget to turn the furnace off and the air return is in your work area, be prepared for a LOT of cleanup work throughout the house. Been there, done that, have the T-Shirt.
Also, you still have to paint the trim by hand.
Use a regular 9'; roller pad on a 9'; frame with an extension handle about the size of a broom handle. Use a quality 2'; brush for cutting in and trim work.
There is a reason you don't see many professionals using power rollers. It's just as quick and the results are often better using good old human power.
Roll in a narrow W pattern working the paint from unpainted area back into painted area. Don't overload the roller, you don't want it dripping. Don't allow the roller to dry out while rolling. The wall is going to take as much paint as it wants, there is no saving paint by rolling it thinner. Once you start a wall, finish it. Don't stop in the middle. Also, make sure you have enough mixed paint from one can to finish a wall. Colors can vary a bit from can to can, especially with dark colors.
You can cut in the edges and corners before you roll or after, it really doesn't matter. If you roll three coats, cut in three coats.
If the paint is sagging on the wall, you are putting too much on at once and if you see a lot of 'holidays' - places where you haven't gotten any paint - you aren' t putting enough paint on the wall.
Dark, deep base colors take multiple coats, sometimes as many as three coats to make them look right.Painting - Rollers vs Airless Sprayer?
The airless sprayer is OK if the house is empty, there's no trim or carpet and you don't care about overspray everywhere. You'll spend more time masking before painting and cleaning up the overspray and cleaning the machine than if you just use a roller. Forget the power roller, use a 5 gallon bucket with a roller screen. The power equipment is great if you have a whole house to do and only have to clean it out once.
Don't use an airless sprayer inside. Your best bet is to use rollers and trim brushes.
I've never painted before, but watched many people do it and it doesn't look to bad. I'm looking for feedback on which tool(s) would give me the best and quickest results. I have no problem spending money on a airless sprayer, power roller or any other tools. What would be my best option?Painting - Rollers vs Airless Sprayer?
Don't use the airless inside. You have to mask everything, and I mean everything that you don't want to get paint on, You also have to isolate the surrounding rooms. If you forget to turn the furnace off and the air return is in your work area, be prepared for a LOT of cleanup work throughout the house. Been there, done that, have the T-Shirt.
Also, you still have to paint the trim by hand.
Use a regular 9'; roller pad on a 9'; frame with an extension handle about the size of a broom handle. Use a quality 2'; brush for cutting in and trim work.
There is a reason you don't see many professionals using power rollers. It's just as quick and the results are often better using good old human power.
Roll in a narrow W pattern working the paint from unpainted area back into painted area. Don't overload the roller, you don't want it dripping. Don't allow the roller to dry out while rolling. The wall is going to take as much paint as it wants, there is no saving paint by rolling it thinner. Once you start a wall, finish it. Don't stop in the middle. Also, make sure you have enough mixed paint from one can to finish a wall. Colors can vary a bit from can to can, especially with dark colors.
You can cut in the edges and corners before you roll or after, it really doesn't matter. If you roll three coats, cut in three coats.
If the paint is sagging on the wall, you are putting too much on at once and if you see a lot of 'holidays' - places where you haven't gotten any paint - you aren' t putting enough paint on the wall.
Dark, deep base colors take multiple coats, sometimes as many as three coats to make them look right.Painting - Rollers vs Airless Sprayer?
The airless sprayer is OK if the house is empty, there's no trim or carpet and you don't care about overspray everywhere. You'll spend more time masking before painting and cleaning up the overspray and cleaning the machine than if you just use a roller. Forget the power roller, use a 5 gallon bucket with a roller screen. The power equipment is great if you have a whole house to do and only have to clean it out once.
Don't use an airless sprayer inside. Your best bet is to use rollers and trim brushes.
Painting for small spaces- sprayer or do it with a roller? Which is faster and easier?
We just bought a paint sprayer and I can't wait to try it. My husband just got done building a small second bathroom. He wants me to paint it. I want to use the sprayer which he thinks is a waste of time because I have to tape EVERYTHING off and think it would be quicker by hand. I am not the best painter when it comes to the roller and I am not neat by any means but I understand what he means. I'll have to tape off the shower, the floor, the toilet and the sink and all the light fixtures.. Which do you think will be the best for me? Taping everything off and spraying or trying to hand paint it?
Thanks!Painting for small spaces- sprayer or do it with a roller? Which is faster and easier?
Use the roller! The paint sprayer will be more trouble than it's worth for a small space. When you paint by hand, you still need to tape off all the edges with painters tape. This may sound time consuming, but it goes much faster than you think.Painting for small spaces- sprayer or do it with a roller? Which is faster and easier?
Here's the thing with using a sprayer, First you will have to cover everything and mask off, then you could spray then you will need to back roll the ceiling and walls after you spray, Cause just spraying will look bad. I would cut the room in first then take your time and roll the ceiling out then the walls. Good luck.
www.frankawitz.net
Roll it. Your husband is right about the taping and in addition, it takes forever to clean the sprayer. The cleanup is so time consuming that it is only worth using if you plan on painting all day long.
the roller would do the best job becasue a spryer is made for big jobs like painting the outside of your house
Thanks!Painting for small spaces- sprayer or do it with a roller? Which is faster and easier?
Use the roller! The paint sprayer will be more trouble than it's worth for a small space. When you paint by hand, you still need to tape off all the edges with painters tape. This may sound time consuming, but it goes much faster than you think.Painting for small spaces- sprayer or do it with a roller? Which is faster and easier?
Here's the thing with using a sprayer, First you will have to cover everything and mask off, then you could spray then you will need to back roll the ceiling and walls after you spray, Cause just spraying will look bad. I would cut the room in first then take your time and roll the ceiling out then the walls. Good luck.
www.frankawitz.net
Roll it. Your husband is right about the taping and in addition, it takes forever to clean the sprayer. The cleanup is so time consuming that it is only worth using if you plan on painting all day long.
the roller would do the best job becasue a spryer is made for big jobs like painting the outside of your house
Painting Small Area - Brush only, or Need Roller?
On most of the tutorials that I have seen, they all say to use a roller on large areas. I have to paint a small area (160 inches by 55 inches). Would simply using a brush suffice (i.e. would the paint be even)? Or am I better off using a roller as well? Thanks!Painting Small Area - Brush only, or Need Roller?
I would use a roller so you don't get any brush strokes, then in the corners use a small brush.Painting Small Area - Brush only, or Need Roller?
brushes leave a different texture than rollers. Choose which one you like better. For smaller spaces, it doesnt matter, just be sure to use a good brush if you go with it.
They have small rollers out there which would probably suit your needs. Using a brush is a pain!
use a roller! i tried with a brush and it took me years to get it right!
Roller is best bet, But if you use brush, buy a good one,
Don't use a cheap one, Good brush will cost you aprox $15.00 to
$20.00 bucks, I'd use 4';
You are definatly better off using a roller unless you don't mind brush marks.
I would use a roller so you don't get any brush strokes, then in the corners use a small brush.Painting Small Area - Brush only, or Need Roller?
brushes leave a different texture than rollers. Choose which one you like better. For smaller spaces, it doesnt matter, just be sure to use a good brush if you go with it.
They have small rollers out there which would probably suit your needs. Using a brush is a pain!
use a roller! i tried with a brush and it took me years to get it right!
Roller is best bet, But if you use brush, buy a good one,
Don't use a cheap one, Good brush will cost you aprox $15.00 to
$20.00 bucks, I'd use 4';
You are definatly better off using a roller unless you don't mind brush marks.
I have an 18 x24 painting that I want to scan, but I can't use a roller scanner like at Kinkos, any ideas?
I don't think it would be a good idea to do that... Well, taking a picture of the painting...
Hope this helpsI have an 18 x24 painting that I want to scan, but I can't use a roller scanner like at Kinkos, any ideas?
Thanks sweety... Love ya!
I have an 18 x24 painting that I want to scan, but I can't use a roller scanner like at Kinkos, any ideas?
try a t-shirt shop they have ways of scanning things to put on tees. Maybe they can help u.
Don't know where you live but you could take it to a camera/photo shop and they could professionally take a photo for you that can be put onto a CD and you would have great quality and make as many copies, photos, scans that you want!
I would also suggest contacting someone who is REALLY good in photography or with a digital camera and have them take a photo for you....
you could use a camera with really high resolution and take a picture of it. or you could hire a professional photographer.
the results might surprise you.
OR!
if all else fails, you could just hire someone to worry about it for you =P
use digital camera, with high resulation, much better than scanner, then print it from your camera, scanner is really very old now , I use my digital camera as scanner.
Hope this helpsI have an 18 x24 painting that I want to scan, but I can't use a roller scanner like at Kinkos, any ideas?
Thanks sweety... Love ya!
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I have an 18 x24 painting that I want to scan, but I can't use a roller scanner like at Kinkos, any ideas?
try a t-shirt shop they have ways of scanning things to put on tees. Maybe they can help u.
Don't know where you live but you could take it to a camera/photo shop and they could professionally take a photo for you that can be put onto a CD and you would have great quality and make as many copies, photos, scans that you want!
I would also suggest contacting someone who is REALLY good in photography or with a digital camera and have them take a photo for you....
you could use a camera with really high resolution and take a picture of it. or you could hire a professional photographer.
the results might surprise you.
OR!
if all else fails, you could just hire someone to worry about it for you =P
use digital camera, with high resulation, much better than scanner, then print it from your camera, scanner is really very old now , I use my digital camera as scanner.
Painting help.what size nap roller?
im priming new drywall just installed and i have a 3/8 nap roller and a 3/4 nap roller. i do want it to cover alot of imperfections but dont want it too rough where it takes alot of paint.im new at this. thanksPainting help.what size nap roller?
Use the 3/8 roller. You use the 3/4 on things like stucco where the finish is really rough. Most of your interior painting is done with a 3/8.
I prefer to use the little sponge rollers.Painting help.what size nap roller?
either one,
Use the 3/8 roller. You use the 3/4 on things like stucco where the finish is really rough. Most of your interior painting is done with a 3/8.
I prefer to use the little sponge rollers.Painting help.what size nap roller?
either one,
Painting inside house...left marks.. but they are roller marks. We did the ';W'; style as well.?
Thank you for replies..the roller marks are most likely due to pushing roller till almost dry...Will re do the spots that have visible marks.Painting inside house...left marks.. but they are roller marks. We did the ';W'; style as well.?
A ';W'; pattern is good for spreading paint but should always be followed with vertical strokes to finish off the job. Keep your roller moist but not excessively wet when you overcoat and the lines should disappear.Painting inside house...left marks.. but they are roller marks. We did the ';W'; style as well.?
If you use the same color it should be okay. Just don't go overboard and use tooooooo much paint --- it will crack when it dries.
I bet you get it right the 2nd time around. Good luck!
A Third coat should cover your previous mistake. Be generous with the paint but not to heavy. Also roll paint in up and down motion......DO NOT PAINT in a W pattern !!
You just didn't use enough paint and you pushed too hard. Don't try to conserve when you paint...make sure you buy enough and don't push hard on the roller.microsoft
A ';W'; pattern is good for spreading paint but should always be followed with vertical strokes to finish off the job. Keep your roller moist but not excessively wet when you overcoat and the lines should disappear.Painting inside house...left marks.. but they are roller marks. We did the ';W'; style as well.?
If you use the same color it should be okay. Just don't go overboard and use tooooooo much paint --- it will crack when it dries.
I bet you get it right the 2nd time around. Good luck!
A Third coat should cover your previous mistake. Be generous with the paint but not to heavy. Also roll paint in up and down motion......DO NOT PAINT in a W pattern !!
You just didn't use enough paint and you pushed too hard. Don't try to conserve when you paint...make sure you buy enough and don't push hard on the roller.
Painting interior walls (roller or sprayer)?
Looking for advice. I need to paint all of the interior walls and ceiling of my house (2800 sq ft). I want to do it quick because I have limited time. I have a nice wagner sprayer and don't care about the mist because all the furniture will be removed. I also don't care if it sprays on the ceiling on most parts of the house becasue the walls and ceiling are the same color. With that said, what would be the disadvantage of using the sprayer instead of a roller? I always prime my walls with a roller, but would like to use the sprayer for the two coats of paint.
Thanks for the feedback.Painting interior walls (roller or sprayer)?
The big disadvantage your going to have in spraying the ceilings/walls is that your using a Wagner sprayer. Wagner sprayers are one of the worse sprayers on the market. You will have nothing but trouble using one when spraying over a wide area (or anything for that matter). It will give you inconsistencies in paint thickness and this type of sprayer loves to spit paint. Very noisy and just doesn't have the power to give good results. I would roll out the walls and ceilings with the paint you already have and be done with it. Do one room at a time. Buy a large drop cloth that completely covers the floor. Have a 2-4ft and 4-8ft painters pole to eliminate stretching and stress on your back. If your using a gloss or an eggshell (satin) be sure to paint the ceiling/walls completely while its wet to prevent flashing or overlapping. Roll the ceiling into the direction of the windows. This will make roller laps less evident when the paint dries.Painting interior walls (roller or sprayer)?
A roller will give you a better finish. You say the ceiling is the same color. Are you going to paint it as well? Because if you're not, and you are using the same color, 9 times out of 10 the overspray will be very evident. It's just hard to get a perfect match. UV would have faded it over time, etc.
It's easier to miss areas (even small ones) with a sprayer because there is so much mist in the air. I would spray, then wait for it to dry, then find any area you missed and get them on your second coat. You also have to mask off more areas when you use a sprayer. Which of course means more prep time.
I always spray the first coat, and roll the second. That way it looks really good.
I vote for the roller too. Less prep time in masking since you'd only have to mask trim. What you might save in time with the sprayer will probably be eaten up with going back and checking for missed spots as well as covering windows and lights with plastic.
definitely roller very quick and easy if all furniture removed as you have already
Thanks for the feedback.Painting interior walls (roller or sprayer)?
The big disadvantage your going to have in spraying the ceilings/walls is that your using a Wagner sprayer. Wagner sprayers are one of the worse sprayers on the market. You will have nothing but trouble using one when spraying over a wide area (or anything for that matter). It will give you inconsistencies in paint thickness and this type of sprayer loves to spit paint. Very noisy and just doesn't have the power to give good results. I would roll out the walls and ceilings with the paint you already have and be done with it. Do one room at a time. Buy a large drop cloth that completely covers the floor. Have a 2-4ft and 4-8ft painters pole to eliminate stretching and stress on your back. If your using a gloss or an eggshell (satin) be sure to paint the ceiling/walls completely while its wet to prevent flashing or overlapping. Roll the ceiling into the direction of the windows. This will make roller laps less evident when the paint dries.Painting interior walls (roller or sprayer)?
A roller will give you a better finish. You say the ceiling is the same color. Are you going to paint it as well? Because if you're not, and you are using the same color, 9 times out of 10 the overspray will be very evident. It's just hard to get a perfect match. UV would have faded it over time, etc.
It's easier to miss areas (even small ones) with a sprayer because there is so much mist in the air. I would spray, then wait for it to dry, then find any area you missed and get them on your second coat. You also have to mask off more areas when you use a sprayer. Which of course means more prep time.
I always spray the first coat, and roll the second. That way it looks really good.
I vote for the roller too. Less prep time in masking since you'd only have to mask trim. What you might save in time with the sprayer will probably be eaten up with going back and checking for missed spots as well as covering windows and lights with plastic.
definitely roller very quick and easy if all furniture removed as you have already
What are the best brushes and rollers to use when painting?
I am painting my living room. The house is a only few years old and the walls have a standard, smooth texture. I am not sure which type of roller or brushes will work best with a satin latex paint.
Also, I have vaulted ceilings and need to know if there are any tools besides a ladder and a brush that could help me reach such a high area of the walls. Thanks! :)What are the best brushes and rollers to use when painting?
At your local hardware or paint store you can find a roller for smooth or semi-smooth surfaces, make sure the are anti-shed. Decorators choice are good and Lowe's carries them. Sherwin Williams carries good rollers also. If you do not paint very often you might want to consider a cut-in pad, it is a square usually red or blue with a handle and two small wheels on top that roll on the ceiling so that your paint line at the top remains straight and helps you not get it on your ceiling. It works on the bottom also.What are the best brushes and rollers to use when painting?
With rollers, it is the nap that is important. Get the proper nap for the surface you are painting. Brushes, it depends on the type paint (latex, enamel etc) you choose. Both should tell on the package what they are best used for. Don't buy the ';bargain'; brands.
There's something called an Extend'O Roller that you can get at your local hardware store. Hope I was of help!
Klaire
Also, I have vaulted ceilings and need to know if there are any tools besides a ladder and a brush that could help me reach such a high area of the walls. Thanks! :)What are the best brushes and rollers to use when painting?
At your local hardware or paint store you can find a roller for smooth or semi-smooth surfaces, make sure the are anti-shed. Decorators choice are good and Lowe's carries them. Sherwin Williams carries good rollers also. If you do not paint very often you might want to consider a cut-in pad, it is a square usually red or blue with a handle and two small wheels on top that roll on the ceiling so that your paint line at the top remains straight and helps you not get it on your ceiling. It works on the bottom also.What are the best brushes and rollers to use when painting?
With rollers, it is the nap that is important. Get the proper nap for the surface you are painting. Brushes, it depends on the type paint (latex, enamel etc) you choose. Both should tell on the package what they are best used for. Don't buy the ';bargain'; brands.
There's something called an Extend'O Roller that you can get at your local hardware store. Hope I was of help!
Klaire
Brush or roller which is best for painting?
For walls? Definitely a roller. Less work in less time. With a brush you have to make sure every stroke is even and it would take forever! lol
Hope I helped.Brush or roller which is best for painting?
Depends on what you're painting!
If you're painting the walls of your room then rollers are convenient, but you'll still need to use a brush to get the details and around edges.Brush or roller which is best for painting?
Rollers are better for painting and faster too.
Brush for small areas and persision work.
Roller for a large area.
Roller, duh!
i'm sure someone's asked this before
Hope I helped.Brush or roller which is best for painting?
Depends on what you're painting!
If you're painting the walls of your room then rollers are convenient, but you'll still need to use a brush to get the details and around edges.Brush or roller which is best for painting?
Rollers are better for painting and faster too.
Brush for small areas and persision work.
Roller for a large area.
Roller, duh!
i'm sure someone's asked this before
Roller marks when painting?
my room is in the middle of being painted purple. Its good paint but it needed a third coat but on some of the walls you can see were the roller went and where we outlined the trim why is that and how can i fix my walls? help please!Roller marks when painting?
some deep tones are a bear...i'v had some colours take three and then a fourth coat to adequately cover.
if it has been previously painted applying primer is pissing in the wind, so don't bother with that.
you need to keep a ';wet edge'; which means that one person must cut in and one person must roll and you both must stay on top of it or you will get a banding effect that you are talking about, also roll as close to the ceiling and base and adjoining walls as you possibly can without touching them...hope this helps i know it is alot of work and a royal pain in the butt, but you can make it work.Roller marks when painting?
Did you put a primer on the walls before you started painting? Sometimes even if its good paint it leaves the marks. I just painted the inside of my entire house and found that it took three coats for each room. Don't worry about it. I know its exhausting but if you want it to look great then put the third coat on.
Sounds like two things occurred - first you were going too thin or dry on the final coat. Second you may not have waited long enough before applying coats for the first ones to thoroughly dry. Also, third coats with gloss or semi-gloss are always iffy.
You should always use a primer before you paint. You only need one coat to paint. But since you've already started to cover the roller marks you have to paint in straight, uniform strokes.
You press to hard on the roller and use to little paint on the roller. Don't be stingy with paint. Let the roller do the work and don't press on it. Don't just go up and down but spread the paint a little on the wall in kind of a v pattern. Soak up the roller in the pan every couple of rolls. Been doing that for many years.
some deep tones are a bear...i'v had some colours take three and then a fourth coat to adequately cover.
if it has been previously painted applying primer is pissing in the wind, so don't bother with that.
you need to keep a ';wet edge'; which means that one person must cut in and one person must roll and you both must stay on top of it or you will get a banding effect that you are talking about, also roll as close to the ceiling and base and adjoining walls as you possibly can without touching them...hope this helps i know it is alot of work and a royal pain in the butt, but you can make it work.Roller marks when painting?
Did you put a primer on the walls before you started painting? Sometimes even if its good paint it leaves the marks. I just painted the inside of my entire house and found that it took three coats for each room. Don't worry about it. I know its exhausting but if you want it to look great then put the third coat on.
Sounds like two things occurred - first you were going too thin or dry on the final coat. Second you may not have waited long enough before applying coats for the first ones to thoroughly dry. Also, third coats with gloss or semi-gloss are always iffy.
You should always use a primer before you paint. You only need one coat to paint. But since you've already started to cover the roller marks you have to paint in straight, uniform strokes.
You press to hard on the roller and use to little paint on the roller. Don't be stingy with paint. Let the roller do the work and don't press on it. Don't just go up and down but spread the paint a little on the wall in kind of a v pattern. Soak up the roller in the pan every couple of rolls. Been doing that for many years.
Are paint pads as good as rollers?
I have never used them as all paint needs a certain thickness and I can't see that occuring properly with pads. I have used a a kitchen sponge to get in behind a radiator or to try and lightly effect a repair.Are paint pads as good as rollers?
I love them, but they get a little sloppy sometimes. Mostly we've used both when we paint. The pads are great for tight spaces, corners, etc. If you get really good with them, you may not need to tape. They hold less paint, which is great for cleanup. No need to spend all that time cleaning rollers.Are paint pads as good as rollers?
They are OK but are slower than a roller. They do enable you to get into corners so that cutting in is sometimes not necessary. They do not splatter but you need a pretty good size if you are doing a ceiling. They do not have a deep enough pile to do any walls or ceilings that have some sort of relief in the pattern.
i would not wipe my **** with them, they give a poor finish, buy the best quality brushes and rollers you can afford. All these so called wonder products for painting yet you never see a professional decorator using them. wonder why?
I think they are better - no splatter everwhere like rollers!human hair
I love them, but they get a little sloppy sometimes. Mostly we've used both when we paint. The pads are great for tight spaces, corners, etc. If you get really good with them, you may not need to tape. They hold less paint, which is great for cleanup. No need to spend all that time cleaning rollers.Are paint pads as good as rollers?
They are OK but are slower than a roller. They do enable you to get into corners so that cutting in is sometimes not necessary. They do not splatter but you need a pretty good size if you are doing a ceiling. They do not have a deep enough pile to do any walls or ceilings that have some sort of relief in the pattern.
i would not wipe my **** with them, they give a poor finish, buy the best quality brushes and rollers you can afford. All these so called wonder products for painting yet you never see a professional decorator using them. wonder why?
I think they are better - no splatter everwhere like rollers!
Painting mobile home. shoula i use roller or brush or sponge?
Are you painting the interior? If so, you'll need to prime it so that it will take, %26amp; keep, the paint. A roller looks better than a brush. Spray looks best if you know how to use it properly. Have fun. I just finished painting my diningroom burgundy -- I love it!Painting mobile home. shoula i use roller or brush or sponge?
If you must roll it on. If you can spray it on. Good luckPainting mobile home. shoula i use roller or brush or sponge?
i would use a electric spray gun. they are a little pricy but they do a really good job.
Painting the exterior? I would try a spray gun.
If its the outside make sure it is clean and dry. Might want to use a primer
If you must roll it on. If you can spray it on. Good luckPainting mobile home. shoula i use roller or brush or sponge?
i would use a electric spray gun. they are a little pricy but they do a really good job.
Painting the exterior? I would try a spray gun.
If its the outside make sure it is clean and dry. Might want to use a primer
So two black guys with some paint and rollers fixed walter reed .Imagine if we had a couple of mexicans in D.C
Two mexicans could paint the building , fix the drywall ,put on a roof ,cut the grass, polish the floors ,clean up the rats ,(AT LUNCH )and work for 3 dollars a day .So two black guys with some paint and rollers fixed walter reed .Imagine if we had a couple of mexicans in D.C
WOW, that's great thinking !!!!
Imagine how great your thoughts will be once your head's out of your a**.So two black guys with some paint and rollers fixed walter reed .Imagine if we had a couple of mexicans in D.C
yes?
Why don't you fix the problem?
Ooooh! You are a trouble maker.
Please don't do this..
wow, you are not right.
You are such a bigot!
Shame on you!
What a point of view you have...... Take you head out of that dark and dirty place behind you!!
You probably have no life, a wife who hates you, a girlfriend who uses you for money, kids who can't stand the sight of you and a dog who runs every time he sees you coming.
Sir Kennedy has been in office since 1963 and it was congress that cut the budget and controls funding for WR and all the other Military facilities. Do you think Congress has more to do with it than Mr. Bush?
And it's all under the books
Good for you looking to say the taxpayers of our great nation money. I salute you
Are you saying that humans ';should'; be treated like slaves if they are not white?
Where is the question at?
Was there a question? I guess since you are willing to only pay 3 dollars, then you are in favor of illegals.
If you think the mexicans have a better work ethic, why not head south.
WOW, that's great thinking !!!!
Imagine how great your thoughts will be once your head's out of your a**.So two black guys with some paint and rollers fixed walter reed .Imagine if we had a couple of mexicans in D.C
yes?
Why don't you fix the problem?
Ooooh! You are a trouble maker.
Please don't do this..
wow, you are not right.
You are such a bigot!
Shame on you!
What a point of view you have...... Take you head out of that dark and dirty place behind you!!
You probably have no life, a wife who hates you, a girlfriend who uses you for money, kids who can't stand the sight of you and a dog who runs every time he sees you coming.
Sir Kennedy has been in office since 1963 and it was congress that cut the budget and controls funding for WR and all the other Military facilities. Do you think Congress has more to do with it than Mr. Bush?
And it's all under the books
Good for you looking to say the taxpayers of our great nation money. I salute you
Are you saying that humans ';should'; be treated like slaves if they are not white?
Where is the question at?
Was there a question? I guess since you are willing to only pay 3 dollars, then you are in favor of illegals.
If you think the mexicans have a better work ethic, why not head south.
How do I stop emulsion paint looking streaky on a wall? I don't like using rollers so use a brush instead
Load the brush generously. Apply some paint, then brush it out in every direction so there are no obvious brushmarks. This will give you a roughly circular patch of painted wall. Keep doing this making sure there's plenty of overlap between the patches. Then when it's dry - do it again.How do I stop emulsion paint looking streaky on a wall? I don't like using rollers so use a brush instead
If you are using good paint and brushes that should do it .So the only solution for streaking is to wear clothes.How do I stop emulsion paint looking streaky on a wall? I don't like using rollers so use a brush instead
You need to paint at least 2 coats with a brush
Mat i suggest you do use a roller it always gives a streak free finish, if you really don't want to use a roller, try a paint pad, these a really good as well.
Are you diluting the paint? Bad mistake if so and there is your answer!
Good quality paint for starters then try paint pads, I find they work really well they are faster than brushes and the paint goes a lot further with better coverage.
Choose a good quality make of paint, the cheaper brands usually need more coats. Invest in good brushes, like you I prefer a brush to a roller. Ive only had a problem a couple of times when I've bought cheap paint. Just ensuring the walls are primed and ready for the paint should give you a good start. Even after stripping wallpaper you can have a good paint job if you have made sure the walls surfaces are as smooth as possible.
Have you tried using a paint pad instead?They are very good!
well the way I do it is I first put an undercoat of white Matt emulsion down. I let this dry a couple of days then put on the colour.
I use a roller as it much faster but you can use a brush.
If using brush fully load brush apply in one direction usually up and down then blend in using x type strokes.
I always chose Matt emulsion as this doses not reflect any imperfections on walls as the like of gloss or satin would in the light..
Don't use cheap paint........false economy.....good paint covers in less coats. Are you using a short haired roller. A long-haired one is harder to manage. Or use paint pads. Paint the edges first then you should have no problem.
roller because it gives it a finishing
If you are using good paint and brushes that should do it .So the only solution for streaking is to wear clothes.How do I stop emulsion paint looking streaky on a wall? I don't like using rollers so use a brush instead
You need to paint at least 2 coats with a brush
Mat i suggest you do use a roller it always gives a streak free finish, if you really don't want to use a roller, try a paint pad, these a really good as well.
Are you diluting the paint? Bad mistake if so and there is your answer!
Good quality paint for starters then try paint pads, I find they work really well they are faster than brushes and the paint goes a lot further with better coverage.
Choose a good quality make of paint, the cheaper brands usually need more coats. Invest in good brushes, like you I prefer a brush to a roller. Ive only had a problem a couple of times when I've bought cheap paint. Just ensuring the walls are primed and ready for the paint should give you a good start. Even after stripping wallpaper you can have a good paint job if you have made sure the walls surfaces are as smooth as possible.
Have you tried using a paint pad instead?They are very good!
well the way I do it is I first put an undercoat of white Matt emulsion down. I let this dry a couple of days then put on the colour.
I use a roller as it much faster but you can use a brush.
If using brush fully load brush apply in one direction usually up and down then blend in using x type strokes.
I always chose Matt emulsion as this doses not reflect any imperfections on walls as the like of gloss or satin would in the light..
Don't use cheap paint........false economy.....good paint covers in less coats. Are you using a short haired roller. A long-haired one is harder to manage. Or use paint pads. Paint the edges first then you should have no problem.
roller because it gives it a finishing
Approximatley, how much is it to paint a room avg. size? A deep brown color? Rollers, brushes all that stuff?
about 50 to 75 depends on how much you want to spend on the quality of paintApproximatley, how much is it to paint a room avg. size? A deep brown color? Rollers, brushes all that stuff?
Should be able to do it for $100 or so. depends on how expensive the paint is. 12x 12 room should be able to do.Approximatley, how much is it to paint a room avg. size? A deep brown color? Rollers, brushes all that stuff?
GOOD YOUR TALKING TO A PAST PAINTER WELL YOU NEED PLASTIC A BOX COUPLE ROLLS OF TAPE ONE ROLLER A BRUSH AND THE PAINT MY ESTIMATE IS ABOUT ANYWHERE FROM $200 TO $500 DEPENDING ON WHAT STORE YOU USE AND WHAT QUALITY PAINT YOU GET TRY TO GO TO FRAZEE OR ICA PAINTS GOOD PRICES OR HOME DEPOT
you cheep bastard buy some paint and get started. a gallon will paint about 300 sqf. but you need 2 coats plus a primer coat. dont buy a cheap brush either, impress your freind and spend the 15 dollars and get started.
the paint is the most expensive part, of course. Unfortunately, you get what you pay for, so don't get cheap paint. I like Benjamin Moore, myself, but I'm happy with any top brand paint.
Count on 2 coats of paint. For my 12/15 room, I needed just under 2 gallons. At $35 per gallon for the good stuff, it can add up.
Buy two good brushes (again . .you get what you pay for) and a 2 pack of rollers. Also, buy the good 3M painters tape. It's a pain in the *** to tape the ceiling and around doors, but worth every minute.
Remember ... . good painting is all in the prep work. Tape it all nicely and you'll make it look like a pro.
Should be able to do it for $100 or so. depends on how expensive the paint is. 12x 12 room should be able to do.Approximatley, how much is it to paint a room avg. size? A deep brown color? Rollers, brushes all that stuff?
GOOD YOUR TALKING TO A PAST PAINTER WELL YOU NEED PLASTIC A BOX COUPLE ROLLS OF TAPE ONE ROLLER A BRUSH AND THE PAINT MY ESTIMATE IS ABOUT ANYWHERE FROM $200 TO $500 DEPENDING ON WHAT STORE YOU USE AND WHAT QUALITY PAINT YOU GET TRY TO GO TO FRAZEE OR ICA PAINTS GOOD PRICES OR HOME DEPOT
you cheep bastard buy some paint and get started. a gallon will paint about 300 sqf. but you need 2 coats plus a primer coat. dont buy a cheap brush either, impress your freind and spend the 15 dollars and get started.
the paint is the most expensive part, of course. Unfortunately, you get what you pay for, so don't get cheap paint. I like Benjamin Moore, myself, but I'm happy with any top brand paint.
Count on 2 coats of paint. For my 12/15 room, I needed just under 2 gallons. At $35 per gallon for the good stuff, it can add up.
Buy two good brushes (again . .you get what you pay for) and a 2 pack of rollers. Also, buy the good 3M painters tape. It's a pain in the *** to tape the ceiling and around doors, but worth every minute.
Remember ... . good painting is all in the prep work. Tape it all nicely and you'll make it look like a pro.
Roller marks on newly painted ceiling. Yuck!?
Okay..I just painted our kitchen ceiling and there are roller marks everywhere! Very disappointing. I even gave it two coats. If I do a third coat will the marks disappear? Went with a darker color than the orginal/eggshell sheen/ and used what I thought was a decent roller and paint. Any suggestions? Should I redo in a flat sheen?Roller marks on newly painted ceiling. Yuck!?
Paul and Austin pretty much have you covered there. The roller and the amount of paint are very important, as well as using a variety of directions. But make sure you aren't using one of those big poofy like rollers. You don't need the extra material because most ceilings are flat. (I'm assuming you don't have a textured ceiling because it'd be real tough to see the brush marks over the texture). Lastly, I'd make sure your paint is mixed well. Any variation in the color is going to make it worse for you.Roller marks on newly painted ceiling. Yuck!?
Roller marks are usually the result of the rolling pad not being all the way inserted on the roller.
Is there paint build up on the roller handle keeping it from going on?
If it slipped while your using it,bang it on bucket to get it to go back on.
Good roller = good pad always =no streaks.
Also are you using a low nap of a fluffy one?
Only use fluffy ones on textured walls.That will also cause streaks,holds too much paint for a flat wall.
no eggshell is fine
you are pressing to hard
or there is a chemical in tint that is added to keep the tint from drying it is called glycol sometimes if there is alot of tint the paint there will be what appears to be roller marks that is just the glycol which dissapears after a full cure of the paint
it is my guess though that you are squeezing out the paint by pressing to hard and creating these marks
fully load up the roller and apply without pressing to hard and keep that roller full of paint
good luck
What Austin Said: you're probably pressing too hard to squeeze the last bit of paint out of the roller. Use more paint and don't press as hard.
Also, go in a variety of directions (not just the same direction). This eliminates a uniform ';roller pattern'; on the painted surface.
The best paint for ceilings is ceiling paint. It is the flatest sheen available. As for you roller marks, it may be caused by the type of paint you are using. For instance, if the paint originally on the ceiling is oil-based are you're using latex, then you'll see the marks, no matter how many coats you put on there. Also, it won't last well.
I suggest you take a primer and prime the paint you've put up. Then, using a ceiling flat paint, redo the ceiling.
You should use a tinted primer if you're painting a dark color. This will also help you get rid of roller marks.
you should of used a flat on the ceiling anyway and use a number 3 rollers i would go over it using a flat paint.
Paul and Austin pretty much have you covered there. The roller and the amount of paint are very important, as well as using a variety of directions. But make sure you aren't using one of those big poofy like rollers. You don't need the extra material because most ceilings are flat. (I'm assuming you don't have a textured ceiling because it'd be real tough to see the brush marks over the texture). Lastly, I'd make sure your paint is mixed well. Any variation in the color is going to make it worse for you.Roller marks on newly painted ceiling. Yuck!?
Roller marks are usually the result of the rolling pad not being all the way inserted on the roller.
Is there paint build up on the roller handle keeping it from going on?
If it slipped while your using it,bang it on bucket to get it to go back on.
Good roller = good pad always =no streaks.
Also are you using a low nap of a fluffy one?
Only use fluffy ones on textured walls.That will also cause streaks,holds too much paint for a flat wall.
no eggshell is fine
you are pressing to hard
or there is a chemical in tint that is added to keep the tint from drying it is called glycol sometimes if there is alot of tint the paint there will be what appears to be roller marks that is just the glycol which dissapears after a full cure of the paint
it is my guess though that you are squeezing out the paint by pressing to hard and creating these marks
fully load up the roller and apply without pressing to hard and keep that roller full of paint
good luck
What Austin Said: you're probably pressing too hard to squeeze the last bit of paint out of the roller. Use more paint and don't press as hard.
Also, go in a variety of directions (not just the same direction). This eliminates a uniform ';roller pattern'; on the painted surface.
The best paint for ceilings is ceiling paint. It is the flatest sheen available. As for you roller marks, it may be caused by the type of paint you are using. For instance, if the paint originally on the ceiling is oil-based are you're using latex, then you'll see the marks, no matter how many coats you put on there. Also, it won't last well.
I suggest you take a primer and prime the paint you've put up. Then, using a ceiling flat paint, redo the ceiling.
You should use a tinted primer if you're painting a dark color. This will also help you get rid of roller marks.
you should of used a flat on the ceiling anyway and use a number 3 rollers i would go over it using a flat paint.
In Ontario Canada, after painting, is it ok to clean brushes and rollers in the sink and let paint down drain?
Yes as long as it is water based latex paint. It will not hurt your plumbing system or the water supply. The paint wil eventually break down to water after being treated.In Ontario Canada, after painting, is it ok to clean brushes and rollers in the sink and let paint down drain?
yes an nohuman hair
yes an no
Brush or Roller for Painting Chair and Crown Moulding ... ?
Is it best to use a brush or a roller for painting mouldings? I plan to paint the crown moulding and chair rail before it is placed on the wall and then touch it up since the walls and ceiling have already been painted. Is there a specific roller or brush that will allow me to sweep across the mouldings quickly? I figured a brush could work, but I thought perhaps a roller would be a lot faster and wouldn't show the same streaks.Brush or Roller for Painting Chair and Crown Moulding ... ?
The way I paint moulding (not installed), is to run a 4 inch roller down the length of them to get the paint on and then run the brush down it to even it out. This works great on raised panel doors, too. The most time wasted comes from dipping the brush every couple of seconds to get the paint on the wood.Brush or Roller for Painting Chair and Crown Moulding ... ?
Brush
When I installed my crown moulding, I had my painters shoot it with their sprayer. Nice, even coating. However, on other moulding, I used a good angle brush. Good luck!
I work for Benjamin Moore Co. If the molding is wood , I would recommend that you use a good to high quality brush. Use a high bonding primer that also has stain blocking properties properties if the wood has been previously stained and sealed with a clear finish. If it is new use a high quality primer recommended for bare wood. Apply two coats of a high quality paint preferable a Satin or Semi-gloss finish. Benjamin Moores' Waterborne Satin Impervo looks great and levels very well. It is available in white and light to medium depth colors. If you have more questions you may email me.
you should use a good quality brush to suit the paint your using. a foam roller works well and saves times also but if you haven't installed them yet a would suggest a brush for a more quality and uniforn finish
Use a brush to paint, then lightly sand between coats.
i would use a brush
Two or three coats, Brush first to get in to the cracks and a roller for the top coat to smooth it all out.
brush for corners and tight places roller for the big spots
The way I paint moulding (not installed), is to run a 4 inch roller down the length of them to get the paint on and then run the brush down it to even it out. This works great on raised panel doors, too. The most time wasted comes from dipping the brush every couple of seconds to get the paint on the wood.Brush or Roller for Painting Chair and Crown Moulding ... ?
Brush
When I installed my crown moulding, I had my painters shoot it with their sprayer. Nice, even coating. However, on other moulding, I used a good angle brush. Good luck!
I work for Benjamin Moore Co. If the molding is wood , I would recommend that you use a good to high quality brush. Use a high bonding primer that also has stain blocking properties properties if the wood has been previously stained and sealed with a clear finish. If it is new use a high quality primer recommended for bare wood. Apply two coats of a high quality paint preferable a Satin or Semi-gloss finish. Benjamin Moores' Waterborne Satin Impervo looks great and levels very well. It is available in white and light to medium depth colors. If you have more questions you may email me.
you should use a good quality brush to suit the paint your using. a foam roller works well and saves times also but if you haven't installed them yet a would suggest a brush for a more quality and uniforn finish
Use a brush to paint, then lightly sand between coats.
i would use a brush
Two or three coats, Brush first to get in to the cracks and a roller for the top coat to smooth it all out.
brush for corners and tight places roller for the big spots
Interior painting problems with roller.?
I have painted my bedroom with a new roller. Using semi-gloss paint, I have noticed that fuzz has come off my roller and is in the paint on the wall. What is the best way to fix this problem? Do I have to sand the wall and repaint?Interior painting problems with roller.?
You will need to sand and repaint - but try rubbing the wall down with rosin paper - this is the red rolls of paper you normally find in the flooring aisle of home depot - it might be able to remove the fibers without damaging the paint film - just don't rub too hard
to avoid the problem in the future, there is a very simple step to take:
before you dip the roller in paint, wrap the fibers of the paint roller with masking tape - squeeze and pull the tape off. the tape residue will cling to any loose fibers in your roller - leaving you a sound roller suitable for painting...
good luck...Interior painting problems with roller.?
Using a better grade roller eliminates this from happening. You should also prepare the roller before painting with it. This consists of running a barely damp rag up and down the surface to remove any fuzz before painting. You can even use the adhesive side of painters tape (like a lint brush) to remove the loose fuzz.
Sorry but yes, you will have to lightly sand the walls and start over to get the best results. Good luck!
That's it! Be sure to use a really good brand roller and wash it with mild soap and water before painting.Think about satin gloss, same hard finish but will not show near the imperfections of the sheetrock job.
Semi gloss paint is not suited to that form of application as far as I know. You need to use a brush - in fact the container will specify how the paint is to be applied - make sure you read it before you try again. You will have to wait for the paint to dry thoroughly before sanding. That's at least a week if not longer - otherwise you're going to have a terrible mess on your hands.
and go get a better quality roller. i wouldnt sand either. i WOULD get a better roller and put another coat on.
The next time you paint,ask for help picking out a roller. It may sound weird, but there are different types of rollers for different surfaces and types of paint you are using. Usually the heavier or fuzziers ones are for more textured surfaces and the smoother ones are for a smoother surface. You shouldn't have to sand it down unless it's extremely bad. If you get the correct type and repaint it should be okay. I know it would be a hassle, but you may be much happier with your result.
Assuming the paint has already dried, you will probably want to get the caked in fuzz out. You could try light sanding and then putting on another coat of paint.
You will need to sand and repaint - but try rubbing the wall down with rosin paper - this is the red rolls of paper you normally find in the flooring aisle of home depot - it might be able to remove the fibers without damaging the paint film - just don't rub too hard
to avoid the problem in the future, there is a very simple step to take:
before you dip the roller in paint, wrap the fibers of the paint roller with masking tape - squeeze and pull the tape off. the tape residue will cling to any loose fibers in your roller - leaving you a sound roller suitable for painting...
good luck...Interior painting problems with roller.?
Using a better grade roller eliminates this from happening. You should also prepare the roller before painting with it. This consists of running a barely damp rag up and down the surface to remove any fuzz before painting. You can even use the adhesive side of painters tape (like a lint brush) to remove the loose fuzz.
Sorry but yes, you will have to lightly sand the walls and start over to get the best results. Good luck!
That's it! Be sure to use a really good brand roller and wash it with mild soap and water before painting.Think about satin gloss, same hard finish but will not show near the imperfections of the sheetrock job.
Semi gloss paint is not suited to that form of application as far as I know. You need to use a brush - in fact the container will specify how the paint is to be applied - make sure you read it before you try again. You will have to wait for the paint to dry thoroughly before sanding. That's at least a week if not longer - otherwise you're going to have a terrible mess on your hands.
and go get a better quality roller. i wouldnt sand either. i WOULD get a better roller and put another coat on.
The next time you paint,ask for help picking out a roller. It may sound weird, but there are different types of rollers for different surfaces and types of paint you are using. Usually the heavier or fuzziers ones are for more textured surfaces and the smoother ones are for a smoother surface. You shouldn't have to sand it down unless it's extremely bad. If you get the correct type and repaint it should be okay. I know it would be a hassle, but you may be much happier with your result.
Assuming the paint has already dried, you will probably want to get the caked in fuzz out. You could try light sanding and then putting on another coat of paint.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
I am painting dark red and on the 3rd coat and it has roller lines help!!!?
I rolled the bottom and then got up on a chair and rolled the top of wall, but you can see where the two sections meet. I didn't wait for it to dry, only long enough to get up on the chair. What do i do to make it less notice \able?I am painting dark red and on the 3rd coat and it has roller lines help!!!?
make sure you're using enough paint, and when it dries it probably wont be noticeable.
To avoid it alltogether, use a long stick attached to your roller and work side to side. You can probably unscrew one from a mop or broom that you already have and use that.I am painting dark red and on the 3rd coat and it has roller lines help!!!?
Let the paint dry. You may even need to sand it, just a little bit, after it dries.
Always roll from the wet section into the dry.
If it's still wet where the roller lines are, try blending it with a brush.
Let it dry. If there is still a defining line then slap another coat on the whole wall only this time use a roller with an extension arm.
Let it dry you wont see it..........
Lilgirls got the correct answer
YOU ARE PRESSING TO HARD ROLL FROM TOP OR BOTTOM
WITH ONE PASS DO NOT STOP
make sure you're using enough paint, and when it dries it probably wont be noticeable.
To avoid it alltogether, use a long stick attached to your roller and work side to side. You can probably unscrew one from a mop or broom that you already have and use that.I am painting dark red and on the 3rd coat and it has roller lines help!!!?
Let the paint dry. You may even need to sand it, just a little bit, after it dries.
Always roll from the wet section into the dry.
If it's still wet where the roller lines are, try blending it with a brush.
Let it dry. If there is still a defining line then slap another coat on the whole wall only this time use a roller with an extension arm.
Let it dry you wont see it..........
Lilgirls got the correct answer
YOU ARE PRESSING TO HARD ROLL FROM TOP OR BOTTOM
WITH ONE PASS DO NOT STOP
Bengal Rose paint....brushes or rollers to get it on the wall?
What does it suggest on the CAN? That's how I know what tools to use.Bengal Rose paint....brushes or rollers to get it on the wall?
Either does the job. Roller's quicker. Brush is quicker to clean. The best job depends on which you're more used to.Bengal Rose paint....brushes or rollers to get it on the wall?
Rollers.
It may help to use either or but make sure wich ever one you choose its big so the paint will have nice bold strokes
Either does the job. Roller's quicker. Brush is quicker to clean. The best job depends on which you're more used to.Bengal Rose paint....brushes or rollers to get it on the wall?
Rollers.
It may help to use either or but make sure wich ever one you choose its big so the paint will have nice bold strokes
What is the best implement to paint artex with,brushes just dont seem to get into the grooves,rollers ,same.?
a 12 inch roller, long pile sheepskin sleeve
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewpr鈥?/a>What is the best implement to paint artex with,brushes just dont seem to get into the grooves,rollers ,same.?
Try a masonry brush - they have long, soft bristles and you should be able to ';stipple'; the paint on. It's going to take ages though!What is the best implement to paint artex with,brushes just dont seem to get into the grooves,rollers ,same.?
A sprayer? Paint and a compressed air cylinder.
Brushes are best really - but you need to paint it twice - once in one direction, then again at 90 degrees to the first coat. Horrid job and hard work!
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewpr鈥?/a>What is the best implement to paint artex with,brushes just dont seem to get into the grooves,rollers ,same.?
Try a masonry brush - they have long, soft bristles and you should be able to ';stipple'; the paint on. It's going to take ages though!What is the best implement to paint artex with,brushes just dont seem to get into the grooves,rollers ,same.?
A sprayer? Paint and a compressed air cylinder.
Brushes are best really - but you need to paint it twice - once in one direction, then again at 90 degrees to the first coat. Horrid job and hard work!
Painting Stripes from roller?
Ok i am painting my Living Room and i have sheetrock and i already painted it white a long time ago and decided to paint again. But on my walls you can see where the roller last was!! How can i get rid and what is causing it? Thanks in advance!!! :)Painting Stripes from roller?
Not enough paint on the roller? Going up %26amp; down only? You do need to go different directions to even out the paint. Hopefully a second coat will take care of it.Painting Stripes from roller?
You need a high quality roller cover. Additionally, if you are pressing too hard when you roll, you are pushing paint from the roller out to the edges, which leaves a heavier stripe of paint. Apply less pressure, and paint both up and down, and on diagonals--this will help assure better coverage and should reduce your roller marks.
The key to no roller marks is a really good quality roller. And not cheap. It's especially noticeable in a darker paint. Unfortunately, most of us have found this out the hard way!
bet you didnt put on a primer coat on the sheetrock first. do it now and then paint with some good quality paint and rollers.human hair
Not enough paint on the roller? Going up %26amp; down only? You do need to go different directions to even out the paint. Hopefully a second coat will take care of it.Painting Stripes from roller?
You need a high quality roller cover. Additionally, if you are pressing too hard when you roll, you are pushing paint from the roller out to the edges, which leaves a heavier stripe of paint. Apply less pressure, and paint both up and down, and on diagonals--this will help assure better coverage and should reduce your roller marks.
The key to no roller marks is a really good quality roller. And not cheap. It's especially noticeable in a darker paint. Unfortunately, most of us have found this out the hard way!
bet you didnt put on a primer coat on the sheetrock first. do it now and then paint with some good quality paint and rollers.
2 cans of paint and 1 roller for $30 bought 3 more cans and 2 more rollers for $50. How much did 1roller cost?
To paint his house, Samuel bought 2 cans of paint and one roller for $30. When friends came over to help, he went back to the store and bought three more cans of paint and two more rollers for $50. How much did he pay for a roller?
dollars per roller =?2 cans of paint and 1 roller for $30 bought 3 more cans and 2 more rollers for $50. How much did 1roller cost?
This is a simultaneous equation so...
let cans of paint be x
and
rollers be y
2x+y=$30 (equation 1)
3x+2y=$50 (equation 2)
(take equation 1 from equation 2)
x+y=$20
so roller=$102 cans of paint and 1 roller for $30 bought 3 more cans and 2 more rollers for $50. How much did 1roller cost?
Set up two equations, one representing his first purchase and a second representing the last purchase. Let the cost of a can of paint be x and the cost of a roller be y. Then these are the two equations to write:
1st Purchase: 2x + y = 30
2nd Purchase: 3x + 2y = 50
There are two ways to solve this. Either use the elimination method, where you multiply one or both equations by a factor and then add or subtract the two equations to eliminate one of the variables, or write one of the variables in terms of the other and solve for the other variable. In this case, it will be easier to do the latter:
2x + y = 30 -----%26gt; y = 30 - 2x.
Now we can plug the value for y into the second equation and solve for x:
3x + 2y = 50
3x + 2 (30 - 2x) = 50
3x + 60 - 4x = 50
3x - 4x = 50 - 60
-x = -10
x = 10
So the cost of a can of paint is $10.
Now that we know the cost of a can of paint, we can solve for the cost of a roller:
2x + y = 30
2 ($10) + y = $30
$20 + y = $30
y = $30 - $20
y = $10
The cost of a roller is also $10.
To verify this is the correct price for a roller, substitute the price for both the paint and the roller into one or both of the equations to see if a true statement results.
he paid $10 per roller..
10+10=2 cans of paint + 10= 1 roller= $30
10+10+10= 3 cans of paint + 10+10= 2 rollers = $50
10 $
2x+y=30
3x+2y=50
-2(2x+y)=30
3x+2y=50
-4x-2y=-60
3x+2y=50
-x=-10
x=10
dollars per roller =?2 cans of paint and 1 roller for $30 bought 3 more cans and 2 more rollers for $50. How much did 1roller cost?
This is a simultaneous equation so...
let cans of paint be x
and
rollers be y
2x+y=$30 (equation 1)
3x+2y=$50 (equation 2)
(take equation 1 from equation 2)
x+y=$20
so roller=$102 cans of paint and 1 roller for $30 bought 3 more cans and 2 more rollers for $50. How much did 1roller cost?
Set up two equations, one representing his first purchase and a second representing the last purchase. Let the cost of a can of paint be x and the cost of a roller be y. Then these are the two equations to write:
1st Purchase: 2x + y = 30
2nd Purchase: 3x + 2y = 50
There are two ways to solve this. Either use the elimination method, where you multiply one or both equations by a factor and then add or subtract the two equations to eliminate one of the variables, or write one of the variables in terms of the other and solve for the other variable. In this case, it will be easier to do the latter:
2x + y = 30 -----%26gt; y = 30 - 2x.
Now we can plug the value for y into the second equation and solve for x:
3x + 2y = 50
3x + 2 (30 - 2x) = 50
3x + 60 - 4x = 50
3x - 4x = 50 - 60
-x = -10
x = 10
So the cost of a can of paint is $10.
Now that we know the cost of a can of paint, we can solve for the cost of a roller:
2x + y = 30
2 ($10) + y = $30
$20 + y = $30
y = $30 - $20
y = $10
The cost of a roller is also $10.
To verify this is the correct price for a roller, substitute the price for both the paint and the roller into one or both of the equations to see if a true statement results.
he paid $10 per roller..
10+10=2 cans of paint + 10= 1 roller= $30
10+10+10= 3 cans of paint + 10+10= 2 rollers = $50
10 $
2x+y=30
3x+2y=50
-2(2x+y)=30
3x+2y=50
-4x-2y=-60
3x+2y=50
-x=-10
x=10
Paint Rollers.....?
What is the roller for the paint NOT emulsion
Sponge or WooleyPaint Rollers.....?
All roller covers (NAPS) can be used for paint.
Depending on the finish you want; they each perform differently. The longer the NAP (Acrylic fiber or WOOL; etc.) the more paint it will take to LOAD the roller, and the more defined the texture will be.
The shorter the nap; the smoother the finish texture; but the more often you'll have to LOAD the roller.
I use foam covers for the smoother finishes I want to achieve; IE: Commercial doors; etc.
Steven Wolf
thousands of gallons of paint in 45 yearsPaint Rollers.....?
the best roller head you can get are your sheepskin heads stay away from cheap foam heads there crap any painter who uses anything but is not a proper painter
Sponge or WooleyPaint Rollers.....?
All roller covers (NAPS) can be used for paint.
Depending on the finish you want; they each perform differently. The longer the NAP (Acrylic fiber or WOOL; etc.) the more paint it will take to LOAD the roller, and the more defined the texture will be.
The shorter the nap; the smoother the finish texture; but the more often you'll have to LOAD the roller.
I use foam covers for the smoother finishes I want to achieve; IE: Commercial doors; etc.
Steven Wolf
thousands of gallons of paint in 45 yearsPaint Rollers.....?
the best roller head you can get are your sheepskin heads stay away from cheap foam heads there crap any painter who uses anything but is not a proper painter
Paint rollers?
I can't get the paint sleeve off the roller. Aren't they supposed to come off so you can re-use the wire thing underneath? Did I leave it on too long so it dried? What did I do wrong. How do you get rid of the old blotchy roller pad sleeve so you can put on a new one? Thanks.Paint rollers?
Soak roller sleeve/pad in water if paint is waterbased (put the entire roller in...sleeve and all); if it is oil based, soak in gasoline or paint thinner. Wait few hours and then it should be easy to remove, then wash sleeve in soap and water, and reuse the sleeve again!Paint rollers?
It is just stuck, try soaking it or replacing it. You could also try to cut it off, but it harder then it should be.
They are supposed to come off - usually just a case of pulling the roller off the wire 'thing'.
If it's got all gunged up with paint and it's dried then it will be hard to get them apart. Try soaking in very hot / boiling water, if the paint is water or acrylic based the hot water will soften the paint.
If you need to buy a new roller you might as well buy the whole thing, there's so little price difference.
you are supposed to take off and clean after use......try soaking in soapy solution (dish soap and water work) and then try to pull off again. I hope you did not use something other than latex.....it might be stuck for good
try soaking it in water it probably did get stuck from dry paint
toss it, it will take you more time to try to fix it and if the shaft is gunked up you'll have a hard time getting it to roll paint and get a good job. and buy a new one with 5 wires in it not the cheaper one with only 4 in it. only a buck more, but they work 50 times better! good luck.
If you let the sleeve dry on the roller, you may need a new roller.
If it's a cheap one, toss it and get a new one.
If it's one of the expensive rollers and you used it for latex paint, try soaking it in warm water for a few hours. Then if it won't just pull off after the soaking, you may be able to cut or rip the sleeve off.
If it's an expensive one and you used it for oil based paint, you just learned an expensive lesson...
Soak roller sleeve/pad in water if paint is waterbased (put the entire roller in...sleeve and all); if it is oil based, soak in gasoline or paint thinner. Wait few hours and then it should be easy to remove, then wash sleeve in soap and water, and reuse the sleeve again!Paint rollers?
It is just stuck, try soaking it or replacing it. You could also try to cut it off, but it harder then it should be.
They are supposed to come off - usually just a case of pulling the roller off the wire 'thing'.
If it's got all gunged up with paint and it's dried then it will be hard to get them apart. Try soaking in very hot / boiling water, if the paint is water or acrylic based the hot water will soften the paint.
If you need to buy a new roller you might as well buy the whole thing, there's so little price difference.
you are supposed to take off and clean after use......try soaking in soapy solution (dish soap and water work) and then try to pull off again. I hope you did not use something other than latex.....it might be stuck for good
try soaking it in water it probably did get stuck from dry paint
toss it, it will take you more time to try to fix it and if the shaft is gunked up you'll have a hard time getting it to roll paint and get a good job. and buy a new one with 5 wires in it not the cheaper one with only 4 in it. only a buck more, but they work 50 times better! good luck.
If you let the sleeve dry on the roller, you may need a new roller.
If it's a cheap one, toss it and get a new one.
If it's one of the expensive rollers and you used it for latex paint, try soaking it in warm water for a few hours. Then if it won't just pull off after the soaking, you may be able to cut or rip the sleeve off.
If it's an expensive one and you used it for oil based paint, you just learned an expensive lesson...
How to clean paint rollers?
im gonna be painting a few different colors within the next couple of weeks, how do i succesfully clean the paint rollers after each use? Thanks : DHow to clean paint rollers?
Water, water, water, and more water. I don't bother cleaning them any more. I do all the painting I'm going to do with them, and then toss them. Takes too much water to clean them well, I don't want all that paint in my septic system, and they're never quite the same again if you wash them and let them dry. I find that if you wrap them tightly in plastic, either saran wrap or a couple of plastic grocery bags or both, they will stay in good shape for the next coat for a couple of weeks at least unless it's very warm where they're stored. In fact, I had one stored that I forgot about and it stayed wet long enough to get moldy. If you're worried about that, you could rinse them a little and store them wrapped in plastic while they're a bit wet, but I find that leaves them too wet and you have to get that out before painting with them again. Put them in the fridge or in the basement if it's hot weather where you are. They sell plastic snap-on covers for keeping rollers wet in between coats, and they're nice and tidy, but for the average person, wrapping in plastic is cheaper and just as good.How to clean paint rollers?
The best answer by far was from Jackie. But people dont want to hear about protecting our enviroment. They want quick, easy, cheapest and lazy way out
HI
Use paint thinner. But you're probably better off buying cheap new ones after each use. They still remain pretty hard after you've used them once, which isn't so nice for the next time you use them.
that answer is right
Good answer but for longer storage I've wrapped like above but put into the freezer. For oil based paint, let it dry then dispose of per local codes.
Acrysol. First rinse the best of your abilities, soak in acrysol, rinse thoroughly.
Separate rollers for each color is best, but NOT because of environmental concerns. It is not possible to clean paint rollers sufficiently to use for multiple colors. It is difficult to clean them enough to reuse for the SAME color. They are made for 1 time use.
If you TRY to clean a roller, leave it on the handle and spin it with a high pressure garden hose. Just be sure there is nothing close by that you don't mind splattering with paint.
lacquer thinner works like a charm fill a bucket with it and soak the roller it will come right out gauranteed
well i guess there are no actual painters in the bunch. one actual correct answer and of course not chosen.
Are you kidding?! You use paint thinner not Water!!!
The problem is a paint roller will end up having a lot of paint in it, so holding it under a running faucet is a slow process at best.
A real good way I found is to get a 5-gallon bucket and fill it about halfway with water. Soak the roller in that for a while and swish it around a bit by rotating the handle with the roller underwater. I have found after a while the roller is almost clean, and you can dump the water and replace it and repeat the process a few times.
Another way which works is to hold the paint roller out at the end if a long handle attachment and spray it with a garden hose so the roller spins slowly and the paint spins off. You can completely clean a roller this was in just a few minutes. You can also use this method after soaking the roller in the bucket; the bucket gets most of the paint off.
If you are going to be painting again with the same color in a day or two, or even a week or two, don't bother cleaning the roller at all. Roll it up in a sheet of plastic wrap and secure the ends. I have had rollers stay wet this way for months.
I recommend buying inexpensive rollers for each color. Store in ziplock bags until you are finished. When done, let dry completely and throw in trash. You should not wash paint into the water system, down the drain, or into your environment and the amount of water wasted is not cool. If you are using oil based paint, take rollers to toxic waste disposal in your area.
Think Green :)
You might just be better off buying a bunch of rollers. They're only a couple of bucks each. In fact, get separate roller handles. Then you don't have to worry about it.
But, I have found that you can get most of the paint off a roller (water based paint) by dunking the handle and roller into a 5-gallon bucket of clean water and shaking it vigorously for about a minute. You then use the spray from a hose to rinse it off and use the jet from the hose against the edge of the roller to set it spinning. This then flings the paint off of the roller.
But, be careful with this method, because it does fling the paint everywhere. And, I mean everywhere.
LOTS of water. It would probably be more economical/effective to just get a roller head for each color.
If you are adamant about reusing heads for different colors get a roller spinner. Rinse each roller, spray with Murphy's oil soap, rub, rinse again, use spinner to remove excess liquid, repeat. This will take 5-10 minutes per head per change of color. Do NOT spin where you don't mind getting watered down paint sprayed everywhere, do it outside, or in a shop sink, or an old paint bucket.
hot water
Water, water, water, and more water. I don't bother cleaning them any more. I do all the painting I'm going to do with them, and then toss them. Takes too much water to clean them well, I don't want all that paint in my septic system, and they're never quite the same again if you wash them and let them dry. I find that if you wrap them tightly in plastic, either saran wrap or a couple of plastic grocery bags or both, they will stay in good shape for the next coat for a couple of weeks at least unless it's very warm where they're stored. In fact, I had one stored that I forgot about and it stayed wet long enough to get moldy. If you're worried about that, you could rinse them a little and store them wrapped in plastic while they're a bit wet, but I find that leaves them too wet and you have to get that out before painting with them again. Put them in the fridge or in the basement if it's hot weather where you are. They sell plastic snap-on covers for keeping rollers wet in between coats, and they're nice and tidy, but for the average person, wrapping in plastic is cheaper and just as good.How to clean paint rollers?
The best answer by far was from Jackie. But people dont want to hear about protecting our enviroment. They want quick, easy, cheapest and lazy way out
Report Abuse
HI
Report Abuse
Use paint thinner. But you're probably better off buying cheap new ones after each use. They still remain pretty hard after you've used them once, which isn't so nice for the next time you use them.
Report Abuse
that answer is right
Report Abuse
Good answer but for longer storage I've wrapped like above but put into the freezer. For oil based paint, let it dry then dispose of per local codes.
Report Abuse
Acrysol. First rinse the best of your abilities, soak in acrysol, rinse thoroughly.
Report Abuse
Separate rollers for each color is best, but NOT because of environmental concerns. It is not possible to clean paint rollers sufficiently to use for multiple colors. It is difficult to clean them enough to reuse for the SAME color. They are made for 1 time use.
Report Abuse
If you TRY to clean a roller, leave it on the handle and spin it with a high pressure garden hose. Just be sure there is nothing close by that you don't mind splattering with paint.
Report Abuse
lacquer thinner works like a charm fill a bucket with it and soak the roller it will come right out gauranteed
Report Abuse
well i guess there are no actual painters in the bunch. one actual correct answer and of course not chosen.
Report Abuse
Are you kidding?! You use paint thinner not Water!!!
Report Abuse
The problem is a paint roller will end up having a lot of paint in it, so holding it under a running faucet is a slow process at best.
A real good way I found is to get a 5-gallon bucket and fill it about halfway with water. Soak the roller in that for a while and swish it around a bit by rotating the handle with the roller underwater. I have found after a while the roller is almost clean, and you can dump the water and replace it and repeat the process a few times.
Another way which works is to hold the paint roller out at the end if a long handle attachment and spray it with a garden hose so the roller spins slowly and the paint spins off. You can completely clean a roller this was in just a few minutes. You can also use this method after soaking the roller in the bucket; the bucket gets most of the paint off.
If you are going to be painting again with the same color in a day or two, or even a week or two, don't bother cleaning the roller at all. Roll it up in a sheet of plastic wrap and secure the ends. I have had rollers stay wet this way for months.
I recommend buying inexpensive rollers for each color. Store in ziplock bags until you are finished. When done, let dry completely and throw in trash. You should not wash paint into the water system, down the drain, or into your environment and the amount of water wasted is not cool. If you are using oil based paint, take rollers to toxic waste disposal in your area.
Think Green :)
You might just be better off buying a bunch of rollers. They're only a couple of bucks each. In fact, get separate roller handles. Then you don't have to worry about it.
But, I have found that you can get most of the paint off a roller (water based paint) by dunking the handle and roller into a 5-gallon bucket of clean water and shaking it vigorously for about a minute. You then use the spray from a hose to rinse it off and use the jet from the hose against the edge of the roller to set it spinning. This then flings the paint off of the roller.
But, be careful with this method, because it does fling the paint everywhere. And, I mean everywhere.
LOTS of water. It would probably be more economical/effective to just get a roller head for each color.
If you are adamant about reusing heads for different colors get a roller spinner. Rinse each roller, spray with Murphy's oil soap, rub, rinse again, use spinner to remove excess liquid, repeat. This will take 5-10 minutes per head per change of color. Do NOT spin where you don't mind getting watered down paint sprayed everywhere, do it outside, or in a shop sink, or an old paint bucket.
hot water
I'm painting a room for the first time. Is it better to do it with the roller first then get the edges or?
vice versa? Any tips would be appreciated. Thank You!I'm painting a room for the first time. Is it better to do it with the roller first then get the edges or?
It works better to cut in the edges with a brush then roll the wall. Don't get too far ahead with the cutting in as you want to roll into the area while the paint is still wet.I'm painting a room for the first time. Is it better to do it with the roller first then get the edges or?
I prefer to do a roller first because then you can get as close as possible to the corners and you don't waste your time painting an area with a brush that you can get with the roller. Always have a wet rag handy to wipe off anything that gets on the ceiling by mistake. Also, if you are painting the ceiling, do it first, and let it overlap onto the wall. Then you can paint over the overlap as you do the walls. Use a good 2'; angled cutting brush to do the corners where the wall meets the ceiling. This will give you the best line. I also use a plastic cup with paint in it when I am painting with a brush to avoid constantly going to the paint tray. One more thing. If by ';the first time'; you mean the walls have never been painted, then you should paint the walls with primer first. Good luck.
A successful paint job always starts with good preparation. First mask off the wood work, base boards, etc. remove all switch plates and other items on the wall. Patch any nail holes or other holes in the wall, then be sure to dust down the walls. If you are changing from one color to another, a coat of primer will make your paint job easier. Also, be sure you put the same type of paint on the wall.
Start with your ';cut ins'; ( around the molding, baseboards, corners, and next to the ceiling. Mask off so you will have clean straight lines.
Cover all items in the room, and lay down a cover to protect the floor from drips or spills.
May sound difficult, but its really very easy.
It's best to cut in the edges and borders first. I like to use a 2'; or 3'; sach brush. When that's done, I roll the open areas.
It works better to cut in the edges with a brush then roll the wall. Don't get too far ahead with the cutting in as you want to roll into the area while the paint is still wet.I'm painting a room for the first time. Is it better to do it with the roller first then get the edges or?
I prefer to do a roller first because then you can get as close as possible to the corners and you don't waste your time painting an area with a brush that you can get with the roller. Always have a wet rag handy to wipe off anything that gets on the ceiling by mistake. Also, if you are painting the ceiling, do it first, and let it overlap onto the wall. Then you can paint over the overlap as you do the walls. Use a good 2'; angled cutting brush to do the corners where the wall meets the ceiling. This will give you the best line. I also use a plastic cup with paint in it when I am painting with a brush to avoid constantly going to the paint tray. One more thing. If by ';the first time'; you mean the walls have never been painted, then you should paint the walls with primer first. Good luck.
A successful paint job always starts with good preparation. First mask off the wood work, base boards, etc. remove all switch plates and other items on the wall. Patch any nail holes or other holes in the wall, then be sure to dust down the walls. If you are changing from one color to another, a coat of primer will make your paint job easier. Also, be sure you put the same type of paint on the wall.
Start with your ';cut ins'; ( around the molding, baseboards, corners, and next to the ceiling. Mask off so you will have clean straight lines.
Cover all items in the room, and lay down a cover to protect the floor from drips or spills.
May sound difficult, but its really very easy.
It's best to cut in the edges and borders first. I like to use a 2'; or 3'; sach brush. When that's done, I roll the open areas.
How do i paint a dark colour without showing all roller strokes and imperfections?
ive bought a paint by Craig %26amp; Rose, Opulence sumptuous satin, deepest damson, its like a mulberry colour. i thought id just try a section of my wall and it looks horrible. you can see all the roller marks and all the imperfections on the wall. 7 hours later ive tried a second coat but everything can still be seen. ive just read about priming it???? but if i prime over half a cream wall and part mulberry are my results going to be the same coverage?
please help anyone!!!
thanksHow do i paint a dark colour without showing all roller strokes and imperfections?
its going to take four coats for you to see something you can live with maybe fiveHow do i paint a dark colour without showing all roller strokes and imperfections?
As others have said, prime first. Tint the primer with half the tint used for the top coat. It it's tint is lighter, you can see where you've painted, so far.
Also, add a radiant barrier product, available at Kelly Moore, called Radiosity 3000. It acts as a color enhancer, requiring less coats and keeps the finish more even. This product is not specifically made for this, but it works well for this application. I've painted red, the hardest color to paint, in two coats, where I expected to put on 4 coats.
Also, to eliminate ALL roller strokes, use an airless sprayer. Cheap to rent, locally. Try Home Depot or Lowes, if you don't have a tool rental place nearby.
Their website (though they don't mention the enhance property);
www.Radiosity3000.com
You should definitely prime the walls. After priming, it is possible that you may need to paint a few coats of your color to get even coverage. A good way to prevent roller marks is to push your paint roller in a a large ';V'; or ';W'; shape on the wall. The V (or W) motion will smooth out your roller/brush marks.
Some great advice already given; I wanted to add that you can get tinted primer. A tinted primer can also reduce the number of coats you'll need.
We painted our dining room with a good quality paint that was a deep cranberry. We primed the wall first. It took FOUR coats, but the wall is perfect. No roller marks or brush strokes are visible. We love it!
I just painted a wall mid-mocha. I had to put on two coats of primer and two coats of paint. Zinzers is the primer I used and they also tinted it for me. It turned out nice but BORING!!
priming will help for sure, just do the whole wall. fill any depressions or imperfections or holes.
sand it, clean it, then prime it.
use a good quality paint roller and a good quality cage frame. the wire thing the roller goes on should not be bendy and flexable. that will cause more paint at the edges than in the middle.
keep the room a nice temperature, about 20 deg celcius ( i think thats 70 f ?) and do not paint in direct sunlight. if the top layer dries too fast, the paint will not ';lay down'; same thing if you over brush or over roll it. put a nice coat on, then walk away until it is dry.
since you have a dark colour, that means there is a lot of ';tint'; in the can. that means you want to give it more drying time between coats. check the can for the instructions, but i leave mine at least overnight. tint never actually dries, it just becomes encapsulated in the paint itself. pure tint will rub off for weeks.
one last point. the shinier the paint, the more it shows imperfections. you can probably get the same colour in a flatter ';sheen';. flat paint is a bad drywallers best friend lolhuman hair
please help anyone!!!
thanksHow do i paint a dark colour without showing all roller strokes and imperfections?
its going to take four coats for you to see something you can live with maybe fiveHow do i paint a dark colour without showing all roller strokes and imperfections?
As others have said, prime first. Tint the primer with half the tint used for the top coat. It it's tint is lighter, you can see where you've painted, so far.
Also, add a radiant barrier product, available at Kelly Moore, called Radiosity 3000. It acts as a color enhancer, requiring less coats and keeps the finish more even. This product is not specifically made for this, but it works well for this application. I've painted red, the hardest color to paint, in two coats, where I expected to put on 4 coats.
Also, to eliminate ALL roller strokes, use an airless sprayer. Cheap to rent, locally. Try Home Depot or Lowes, if you don't have a tool rental place nearby.
Their website (though they don't mention the enhance property);
www.Radiosity3000.com
You should definitely prime the walls. After priming, it is possible that you may need to paint a few coats of your color to get even coverage. A good way to prevent roller marks is to push your paint roller in a a large ';V'; or ';W'; shape on the wall. The V (or W) motion will smooth out your roller/brush marks.
Some great advice already given; I wanted to add that you can get tinted primer. A tinted primer can also reduce the number of coats you'll need.
We painted our dining room with a good quality paint that was a deep cranberry. We primed the wall first. It took FOUR coats, but the wall is perfect. No roller marks or brush strokes are visible. We love it!
I just painted a wall mid-mocha. I had to put on two coats of primer and two coats of paint. Zinzers is the primer I used and they also tinted it for me. It turned out nice but BORING!!
priming will help for sure, just do the whole wall. fill any depressions or imperfections or holes.
sand it, clean it, then prime it.
use a good quality paint roller and a good quality cage frame. the wire thing the roller goes on should not be bendy and flexable. that will cause more paint at the edges than in the middle.
keep the room a nice temperature, about 20 deg celcius ( i think thats 70 f ?) and do not paint in direct sunlight. if the top layer dries too fast, the paint will not ';lay down'; same thing if you over brush or over roll it. put a nice coat on, then walk away until it is dry.
since you have a dark colour, that means there is a lot of ';tint'; in the can. that means you want to give it more drying time between coats. check the can for the instructions, but i leave mine at least overnight. tint never actually dries, it just becomes encapsulated in the paint itself. pure tint will rub off for weeks.
one last point. the shinier the paint, the more it shows imperfections. you can probably get the same colour in a flatter ';sheen';. flat paint is a bad drywallers best friend lol
Painting cloth roller window shades?
Have black cloth roller shades. The material is nice and backed with white. Can I paint the black side of the roller shade to a different color, and, if so, with what?
We just bought the house and the former owner probably spent a fortune on these roller shades (I have six total in various sizes). I just wasn't sure if I could find a flexible paint that would work? I wish I could dye them!Painting cloth roller window shades?
There's gotta be a way to undo the hardware and get your cloth shades out. Get a screwdriver, some needle nose pliers, and start working on the most inconspicuous one. Then dye them! Life's too short for boring curtains.
We just bought the house and the former owner probably spent a fortune on these roller shades (I have six total in various sizes). I just wasn't sure if I could find a flexible paint that would work? I wish I could dye them!Painting cloth roller window shades?
There's gotta be a way to undo the hardware and get your cloth shades out. Get a screwdriver, some needle nose pliers, and start working on the most inconspicuous one. Then dye them! Life's too short for boring curtains.
Can you use a Wagner power roller with Valspars Sandstone textured paint?
I am in the middle of painting my living room and I am using Valspars Sandstone textured paint. I have done the first coat and have started on the second, but I am getting alot of uneven buildup spots from the sand. The paint dries to fast while I am reloading the roller and it all looks uneven, so I was wondering if i am able to use a power roller with this paint to get an even look and keep a wet edge. If not, can somebody give me some advice about painting with this kind of paint? Thanks!Can you use a Wagner power roller with Valspars Sandstone textured paint?
I wouldn't, the results will come out about the same. I've used the sand paints a number of times and found that the only way to get full coverage is to constantly stir the paint, and apply a few coats. This will vary in number with the amount of coverage you want. The extra time involved is worth the results. The other tip is the next coat, start off at where you finished the last coat.
I wouldn't, the results will come out about the same. I've used the sand paints a number of times and found that the only way to get full coverage is to constantly stir the paint, and apply a few coats. This will vary in number with the amount of coverage you want. The extra time involved is worth the results. The other tip is the next coat, start off at where you finished the last coat.
Do you think it would be more fun to put a guy friends hair up in rollers or to paint his nails or to?
have him model a bra and dress? LOL!
Sorry I'm Bored and have a potential victim in mind!Do you think it would be more fun to put a guy friends hair up in rollers or to paint his nails or to?
Obviously!!
That would be soo much funn!!
Lol.Do you think it would be more fun to put a guy friends hair up in rollers or to paint his nails or to?
do all!!
and put makeup on him also.
he can be a gay guy for a lil lol
then have him walk in k-mart with you!
i doubt he will but it would be great if he would
lol
I think modeling a bra and dress is funnier.
But personally, I'd rather pierce his penis.
i want pics of that
how bout all...
no way
Sorry I'm Bored and have a potential victim in mind!Do you think it would be more fun to put a guy friends hair up in rollers or to paint his nails or to?
Obviously!!
That would be soo much funn!!
Lol.Do you think it would be more fun to put a guy friends hair up in rollers or to paint his nails or to?
do all!!
and put makeup on him also.
he can be a gay guy for a lil lol
then have him walk in k-mart with you!
i doubt he will but it would be great if he would
lol
I think modeling a bra and dress is funnier.
But personally, I'd rather pierce his penis.
i want pics of that
how bout all...
no way
When cleaning up paint brushes and rollers i've heard, using fabric softener works well. whats the ratioto use
the ratio of liquid fabric softener to water for quick paint brush and roller clean-up?When cleaning up paint brushes and rollers i've heard, using fabric softener works well. whats the ratioto use
i use about 1/4 cp for every gallon of water. works pretty well for me. doesn't have to be exact, its not rocket science.When cleaning up paint brushes and rollers i've heard, using fabric softener works well. whats the ratioto use
I have some brushes I don't use anymore, they're of historical significance. Really, one is over thirty years old and has painted hundreds of homes.
I wash them clean enough to drink the water, that's my rule of thumb and that's told to anyone using them. Then I spray them with W-D 40 and wipe them, before using I run a wire brush through them several times. Then I wash them before using them again.
I have most of the brushes I started with many years ago but, I treat them like old friends, they've made my a lot of money. They're ';Purdy's'; and other good brands, I don't use cheap brushes.
I just pour a glob of softener into a disposable plastic cup, add hot water large enough to immerse the brush in, then let it soak awhile. Then I wash with a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid and rinse well. The brush is just like new again.
i use about 1/4 cp for every gallon of water. works pretty well for me. doesn't have to be exact, its not rocket science.When cleaning up paint brushes and rollers i've heard, using fabric softener works well. whats the ratioto use
I have some brushes I don't use anymore, they're of historical significance. Really, one is over thirty years old and has painted hundreds of homes.
I wash them clean enough to drink the water, that's my rule of thumb and that's told to anyone using them. Then I spray them with W-D 40 and wipe them, before using I run a wire brush through them several times. Then I wash them before using them again.
I have most of the brushes I started with many years ago but, I treat them like old friends, they've made my a lot of money. They're ';Purdy's'; and other good brands, I don't use cheap brushes.
I just pour a glob of softener into a disposable plastic cup, add hot water large enough to immerse the brush in, then let it soak awhile. Then I wash with a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid and rinse well. The brush is just like new again.
Paint Rollers?
How do you stop paint from splashing everywhere with little dots of paint.Paint Rollers?
it has very little to do with the paint you are using or the quality of your sleeve, (roller head) both these things effect the finish, its how you apply the paint to your walls to minimise the splashes that matters, don't overload the sleeve with paint and don't roll to fast get the technique right and you will eliminate allot of splashesPaint Rollers?
All answers so far, at least 1 , 2, and 3 are totally valid. they all deserve credits for suggestions. I'll just add my two cents.
Without knowing at all what size NAP you're using; most common for interior walls is probably 3/8 inch. That seems to be the one most chosen at least, and offers a decent coverage and finish in the end result. Anything less and you won't hold enough paint. Anything more and you'll always HAVE to LOAD the roller; just to fill IT.
The final thought is in using a roller pan; or GRID in 5 gallon buckets, and rolling OUT excess; before applying the paint.
OOOPS,,,LOL Final, Final thought. Even after applying paint for 40 plus years I always ';DROPCLOTH'; everything; and ';little dots'; will happen.
Steven Wolf
you can buy a roller guard,that catches the spray.
just take your time with it or use a pad but you get a better finish with a roller
Don't load up too much paint and go slower... the runnier the paint... the slower you have to go.
Buy higher quality rollers and slow down a little bit. Usually, the splashing is caused by going to quickly. It always amazes me to see how messy other people get when painting. I have painted entire rooms without a single drop cloth without getting a single drop of paint anywhere. I wouldn't recommend that though, I guess I'm just patient.
cover them with newspaper and tape them to the part that you don't need to paint and of course be careful in painting because you need a lot of patience by doing it.
u cant ,cover every thing with plastic dustsheets
Just be careful when you are painting. Make sure after putting paint on the brush or roller you wipe the drips off on the side of the tin, this stops drips. If you don't roll so fast when actually painting then the paint tends not to fly off the brush, therefore reducing the dots of paint which you find everywhere after painting.
I would however always suggest that you put down clear sheets or old covers on the floors and over the furniture to stop them getting covered in paint. You can never guarantee you wont splash any.
Don't try to roll it on so fast. Either slow down or use paint that is not so cheap and has more body to it. My bet is you are using the cheapest paint you could get, and this is never a good idea.
I have never had a problem with paint spraying off a roller, but then I never go for cheap paint.
it has very little to do with the paint you are using or the quality of your sleeve, (roller head) both these things effect the finish, its how you apply the paint to your walls to minimise the splashes that matters, don't overload the sleeve with paint and don't roll to fast get the technique right and you will eliminate allot of splashesPaint Rollers?
All answers so far, at least 1 , 2, and 3 are totally valid. they all deserve credits for suggestions. I'll just add my two cents.
Without knowing at all what size NAP you're using; most common for interior walls is probably 3/8 inch. That seems to be the one most chosen at least, and offers a decent coverage and finish in the end result. Anything less and you won't hold enough paint. Anything more and you'll always HAVE to LOAD the roller; just to fill IT.
The final thought is in using a roller pan; or GRID in 5 gallon buckets, and rolling OUT excess; before applying the paint.
OOOPS,,,LOL Final, Final thought. Even after applying paint for 40 plus years I always ';DROPCLOTH'; everything; and ';little dots'; will happen.
Steven Wolf
you can buy a roller guard,that catches the spray.
just take your time with it or use a pad but you get a better finish with a roller
Don't load up too much paint and go slower... the runnier the paint... the slower you have to go.
Buy higher quality rollers and slow down a little bit. Usually, the splashing is caused by going to quickly. It always amazes me to see how messy other people get when painting. I have painted entire rooms without a single drop cloth without getting a single drop of paint anywhere. I wouldn't recommend that though, I guess I'm just patient.
cover them with newspaper and tape them to the part that you don't need to paint and of course be careful in painting because you need a lot of patience by doing it.
u cant ,cover every thing with plastic dustsheets
Just be careful when you are painting. Make sure after putting paint on the brush or roller you wipe the drips off on the side of the tin, this stops drips. If you don't roll so fast when actually painting then the paint tends not to fly off the brush, therefore reducing the dots of paint which you find everywhere after painting.
I would however always suggest that you put down clear sheets or old covers on the floors and over the furniture to stop them getting covered in paint. You can never guarantee you wont splash any.
Don't try to roll it on so fast. Either slow down or use paint that is not so cheap and has more body to it. My bet is you are using the cheapest paint you could get, and this is never a good idea.
I have never had a problem with paint spraying off a roller, but then I never go for cheap paint.
How do i get dried paint and tin foil out of paintbrushes and rollers?
i covered the paintbrush and the roller with tin foil, but it was too loose, and the paintbrush and the roller dried up.
i heard something about lemon juice, but i cant really remember...?How do i get dried paint and tin foil out of paintbrushes and rollers?
nail polish remover and vinager!
or lemon juice ans salt.
soak, then scrub..then rinse..How do i get dried paint and tin foil out of paintbrushes and rollers?
how bout turpentinehuman hair
i heard something about lemon juice, but i cant really remember...?How do i get dried paint and tin foil out of paintbrushes and rollers?
nail polish remover and vinager!
or lemon juice ans salt.
soak, then scrub..then rinse..How do i get dried paint and tin foil out of paintbrushes and rollers?
how bout turpentine
Is it better to paint a room with rollers and brushes or a sprayer?
i would use a brush and roller a sprayer has a lot of mist off of itIs it better to paint a room with rollers and brushes or a sprayer?
Spray is going to give you the best finish but it require a lot of skill and preparation. The overspray will go everywhere, which is why most painters use rollers if the building is already occupied.
If you are not a professional, it is best to use a brush and roller. First you have to decide on the color. Re-painting with the same color is easier since you don't have to worry so much about ';cutting'; around the edges. Don't use the same color exactly but scrape off a piece of the existing wall and have the paint store match the color. This will save you tons of time cutting and make the job look much better.
If you do want to change the color, you have to consider what it is going to take to cover the old color. The generally rule is that you can cover over lighter colors with darker easily but it is more difficult to cover over darker with lighter. If it really extreme, like painting cream over blood red, use a primer tinted to 1/2 the color of the new paint first. If you are painting over a gloss finish, scratch up the wall surface with 80 grit sandpaper first.
When you ready to paint, cut around the edges. If you don't have steady hand and a good brush, you can mask around the edges with special masking tape (available at the paint store) or use a cutting knife. If you use the knife, be sure to clean it with a handy rag frequently.
Once you have cut, let it dry (an hour for latex, overnight for oil) then roll the wall surfaces, overlapping the areas where you have cut. Repeat until you have the coverage you need.
Use a natural bristle brush if you are painting oil, nylon if you are painting latex. Foam is a joke. Use a thick, puffy roller if the surface is rough, a short-haired, smoother roller if the wall surface is smooth.
Good luck. Is it better to paint a room with rollers and brushes or a sprayer?
I'm currently in the middle of a 4 room repaint.
Using a spray painter takes a lot of experience to keep it from putting paint on EVERYTHING. Look at the pros, they use rollers and brushes.
Before you paint, go over the wall with a bit of spackle. Fill in all the holes and imprefections. Use a putty knife and make them as flat as possible. Sand each of these to make them smooth.
Depending on the walls consider using a primer to coat the walls before you paint. Good primer like Killz is great for covering all manner of paint, stain and bare wood or wallboard.
Use the brush to edge the walls. Rollers won't get right up to the edges properly, so use the brush to get the 2-3 inches from the edge out. THen use the roller to spread on the paint. There are many sites out there that can show you how to apply paint with a roller. Start slow and use less paint until you get to going on it. too much paint and you have drips. Too little and you have a difficult time covering the wall properly.
Use a roller on walls and a brush around edges. If you use a sprayer, it will not only be more expensive with all the other things you have to buy such as drop clothes over EVERYTHING, a mask, etc. but, it's going to be messier and it won't look as nice as a roller will.
first you don't say if your room has furniture or is vacant if it has furniture or your room is small you are better off using a brush and roller set up but if your room is large say 20x20 and no furniture you will be able to spray but I would practice on some card board first as spraying can be tricky
Cut out the edges with a brush and roll the rest. You should always roll straight up and down. Don't roll in too many different directions it will not appear as smooth when it dries. When rolling be sure to roll over the edges of where you cut out so that you have a smooth transition.
Using a sprayer takes a lot of practice before you can get good enough with it to paint evenly without dripping. If this is your first time using a sprayer, you're better off with rollers and brushes.
If you spray it will look fake and if you use a brush it would take a long time I would recommend a long roller it depends what size roller depending on the size of your room
Brush and roller is best.
Sprayer needs more skill and you have to wear mask and protective clothing plus masking off everything you don't want to spray
Probably rollers depending on the size of the room. You should also have a couple of brushes and painters tape for edging.
Try part with a brush and then a sprayer. The brush/rollers will take hours and the sprayer will be done in less than 30 minutes.
Spray is going to give you the best finish but it require a lot of skill and preparation. The overspray will go everywhere, which is why most painters use rollers if the building is already occupied.
If you are not a professional, it is best to use a brush and roller. First you have to decide on the color. Re-painting with the same color is easier since you don't have to worry so much about ';cutting'; around the edges. Don't use the same color exactly but scrape off a piece of the existing wall and have the paint store match the color. This will save you tons of time cutting and make the job look much better.
If you do want to change the color, you have to consider what it is going to take to cover the old color. The generally rule is that you can cover over lighter colors with darker easily but it is more difficult to cover over darker with lighter. If it really extreme, like painting cream over blood red, use a primer tinted to 1/2 the color of the new paint first. If you are painting over a gloss finish, scratch up the wall surface with 80 grit sandpaper first.
When you ready to paint, cut around the edges. If you don't have steady hand and a good brush, you can mask around the edges with special masking tape (available at the paint store) or use a cutting knife. If you use the knife, be sure to clean it with a handy rag frequently.
Once you have cut, let it dry (an hour for latex, overnight for oil) then roll the wall surfaces, overlapping the areas where you have cut. Repeat until you have the coverage you need.
Use a natural bristle brush if you are painting oil, nylon if you are painting latex. Foam is a joke. Use a thick, puffy roller if the surface is rough, a short-haired, smoother roller if the wall surface is smooth.
Good luck. Is it better to paint a room with rollers and brushes or a sprayer?
I'm currently in the middle of a 4 room repaint.
Using a spray painter takes a lot of experience to keep it from putting paint on EVERYTHING. Look at the pros, they use rollers and brushes.
Before you paint, go over the wall with a bit of spackle. Fill in all the holes and imprefections. Use a putty knife and make them as flat as possible. Sand each of these to make them smooth.
Depending on the walls consider using a primer to coat the walls before you paint. Good primer like Killz is great for covering all manner of paint, stain and bare wood or wallboard.
Use the brush to edge the walls. Rollers won't get right up to the edges properly, so use the brush to get the 2-3 inches from the edge out. THen use the roller to spread on the paint. There are many sites out there that can show you how to apply paint with a roller. Start slow and use less paint until you get to going on it. too much paint and you have drips. Too little and you have a difficult time covering the wall properly.
Use a roller on walls and a brush around edges. If you use a sprayer, it will not only be more expensive with all the other things you have to buy such as drop clothes over EVERYTHING, a mask, etc. but, it's going to be messier and it won't look as nice as a roller will.
first you don't say if your room has furniture or is vacant if it has furniture or your room is small you are better off using a brush and roller set up but if your room is large say 20x20 and no furniture you will be able to spray but I would practice on some card board first as spraying can be tricky
Cut out the edges with a brush and roll the rest. You should always roll straight up and down. Don't roll in too many different directions it will not appear as smooth when it dries. When rolling be sure to roll over the edges of where you cut out so that you have a smooth transition.
Using a sprayer takes a lot of practice before you can get good enough with it to paint evenly without dripping. If this is your first time using a sprayer, you're better off with rollers and brushes.
If you spray it will look fake and if you use a brush it would take a long time I would recommend a long roller it depends what size roller depending on the size of your room
Brush and roller is best.
Sprayer needs more skill and you have to wear mask and protective clothing plus masking off everything you don't want to spray
Probably rollers depending on the size of the room. You should also have a couple of brushes and painters tape for edging.
Try part with a brush and then a sprayer. The brush/rollers will take hours and the sprayer will be done in less than 30 minutes.
How can I roll paint my car? (saw a site about prople painting there cars with rollers) any ideas or tips???
Don't expect new car paint quality, but the roller method is VASTLY better than the rattle can method.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0%26amp;Number=2331682%26amp;page=0%26amp;fpart=1%26amp;vc=1
Scroll down to the first post by the user ';69chargeryeehaa'; and you will find everything you need to know.How can I roll paint my car? (saw a site about prople painting there cars with rollers) any ideas or tips???
It does work. Takes a long time between coats and you have to wet sand till your arm is ready to fall off. The up side is you can paint your car for around $50 including the paint.How can I roll paint my car? (saw a site about prople painting there cars with rollers) any ideas or tips???
If you're that low budget to paint the car with a roller I'd suggest a spray can instead.
huhhh
Were they getting their cars ready for a demolition derby? I don't think it would look good.
Just one...Do not even consider it!!!! Unless you are going for that idiot look. There is no way that would look good.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0%26amp;Number=2331682%26amp;page=0%26amp;fpart=1%26amp;vc=1
Scroll down to the first post by the user ';69chargeryeehaa'; and you will find everything you need to know.How can I roll paint my car? (saw a site about prople painting there cars with rollers) any ideas or tips???
It does work. Takes a long time between coats and you have to wet sand till your arm is ready to fall off. The up side is you can paint your car for around $50 including the paint.How can I roll paint my car? (saw a site about prople painting there cars with rollers) any ideas or tips???
If you're that low budget to paint the car with a roller I'd suggest a spray can instead.
huhhh
Were they getting their cars ready for a demolition derby? I don't think it would look good.
Just one...Do not even consider it!!!! Unless you are going for that idiot look. There is no way that would look good.
Paint a wall or use a roller?
paint bush or roller to decorate me house,you decidePaint a wall or use a roller?
Use a roller. It is so much quicker and you get a better even coverage. You will just have to use a brush to cut in at the top and bottom of the walls, round switches, doors etc.Paint a wall or use a roller?
Cut in around the edges with a brush and flatten your brushwork as you go with a 4 inch mini foam roller - this gets rid of the brush marks and ridges which may stand out. Do not dip the mini roller in paint, just use it to flatten your brushwork as you go.
Fill in the walls with a 9 inch roller.
it would take forever with just a paint brush, use a roller for the big areas and a brush in the corners and along the ceiling and trim
RoLerrR much easier. or to make it look professional use one of those spray brushes. they are quick easy and simple to use.
A roller is definately quicker, but then you still need a brush to cut into corners etc.
Roller does a better job, but you need a brush to cut in.
ROLLERRRR
agree with the rest. consistancy is far better and quickens the job.
for quick and easy use a roller
Use a roller. It is so much quicker and you get a better even coverage. You will just have to use a brush to cut in at the top and bottom of the walls, round switches, doors etc.Paint a wall or use a roller?
Cut in around the edges with a brush and flatten your brushwork as you go with a 4 inch mini foam roller - this gets rid of the brush marks and ridges which may stand out. Do not dip the mini roller in paint, just use it to flatten your brushwork as you go.
Fill in the walls with a 9 inch roller.
it would take forever with just a paint brush, use a roller for the big areas and a brush in the corners and along the ceiling and trim
RoLerrR much easier. or to make it look professional use one of those spray brushes. they are quick easy and simple to use.
A roller is definately quicker, but then you still need a brush to cut into corners etc.
Roller does a better job, but you need a brush to cut in.
ROLLERRRR
agree with the rest. consistancy is far better and quickens the job.
for quick and easy use a roller
I'm painting my living room with a roller?
I'm painting my living room with a roller. I want to know how to help the wall from looking streaky. How can I even out the paint? Will it even itself out on the second coat?I'm painting my living room with a roller?
My papa always scolded me for being too chintzy with paint. So make sure you're using enough. Don't roll across a large, open space (keep your lines close and tight). We learned this the hard way, and you could still see the octopus we drew on the wall after 3 coats %26amp; 8 years!
If you apply the 2nd coat before the 1st coat is completely dry, then they should even out.I'm painting my living room with a roller?
Your streaks are made from pushing to hard on your roller that is called dire rolling if you want to even it out just put a little heaver coat on but don't use to much
If it's an old wall that hasn't been painted in years then the first layer will soak right in. Then you need one or two more coats to make it look right. Better to put a sealer as the first coat then paint. Makes the job easier and the paint spreads more evenly and will require only one coat of paint. Keep your roller wet. Don't do like they do in the movies and start rolling for several minutes without dipping in the paint.
Gaining confidence in handling your material and equipment is all part of the pleasure of decorating. These are simply ways of applying and manipulating paint to create a range of surface texture.
A second coat will usually do the trick. Be sure to get enough paint on the roller each time, dont skimp on the paint. Using a good paint will usually solve this problem as well. Dont start worrying until the paint dries, thats when you will be able to see if there are streaks.
Roll the roller in a W-pattern for best coverage. The better you coat the wall on the first coat the less you need to apply the second time through.
However the second coat most definitely will help to hide any imperfections from the first coat, but will not automatically even out the first one. Don't use too much paint on your roller, just enough to coat the roller.
Avoid rolling in a straight line or in rows. Roll in all directions as you go. A good paint should smooth out when it dries and cover with one coat. Use extreme caution if painting a sprayed on ceiling with water base paint-the finish might come off.
as you are rolling the roller on the wall keep it balanced, use a pole so you can stand back from the wall and keep your strokes evn and fluid. The open end of the roller should be facing away from the direction you are painting in to the other end will leave a line
It will if you have good paint. Some paint goes on looking streaked but as it dries the streaks go away. You can also buy texture material at your local Lowe's or other home store that pours in the paint and as it rolls on it textures your wall as well as paints it. It really livens up a bland wall and you can add as little or much as you want to get the look you want.
Yes! The first coat always looks horrible. The second will even it all out. Don't panic.
My papa always scolded me for being too chintzy with paint. So make sure you're using enough. Don't roll across a large, open space (keep your lines close and tight). We learned this the hard way, and you could still see the octopus we drew on the wall after 3 coats %26amp; 8 years!
If you apply the 2nd coat before the 1st coat is completely dry, then they should even out.I'm painting my living room with a roller?
Your streaks are made from pushing to hard on your roller that is called dire rolling if you want to even it out just put a little heaver coat on but don't use to much
If it's an old wall that hasn't been painted in years then the first layer will soak right in. Then you need one or two more coats to make it look right. Better to put a sealer as the first coat then paint. Makes the job easier and the paint spreads more evenly and will require only one coat of paint. Keep your roller wet. Don't do like they do in the movies and start rolling for several minutes without dipping in the paint.
Gaining confidence in handling your material and equipment is all part of the pleasure of decorating. These are simply ways of applying and manipulating paint to create a range of surface texture.
A second coat will usually do the trick. Be sure to get enough paint on the roller each time, dont skimp on the paint. Using a good paint will usually solve this problem as well. Dont start worrying until the paint dries, thats when you will be able to see if there are streaks.
Roll the roller in a W-pattern for best coverage. The better you coat the wall on the first coat the less you need to apply the second time through.
However the second coat most definitely will help to hide any imperfections from the first coat, but will not automatically even out the first one. Don't use too much paint on your roller, just enough to coat the roller.
Avoid rolling in a straight line or in rows. Roll in all directions as you go. A good paint should smooth out when it dries and cover with one coat. Use extreme caution if painting a sprayed on ceiling with water base paint-the finish might come off.
as you are rolling the roller on the wall keep it balanced, use a pole so you can stand back from the wall and keep your strokes evn and fluid. The open end of the roller should be facing away from the direction you are painting in to the other end will leave a line
It will if you have good paint. Some paint goes on looking streaked but as it dries the streaks go away. You can also buy texture material at your local Lowe's or other home store that pours in the paint and as it rolls on it textures your wall as well as paints it. It really livens up a bland wall and you can add as little or much as you want to get the look you want.
Yes! The first coat always looks horrible. The second will even it all out. Don't panic.
How to paint without having the roller streaks left. I want a smooth finish without roller marks. thanks?
I';m using a 3/8'; nap roller but streak still appear.How to paint without having the roller streaks left. I want a smooth finish without roller marks. thanks?
Use a roller cover with short nap, like 1/4 inch or less. Roll all directions, not just up and down. Keep the ends of the roller cover as clean as you can, without alot of excess paint. If the roller cover doesn't fit the handle well it can allow paint to go INSIDE the roller cover and come back out when rolling leaving a thick place. If it is not a very large area you might consider using a brush instead of a roller.How to paint without having the roller streaks left. I want a smooth finish without roller marks. thanks?
After applying thousands of gallons of paint, I offer this.
Too much paint on the nap, and too long a time spent in the process in each area, perhaps.
The paint issue is easy to solve, just roll off excess, in the tray or 5 gal. bucket Grid, and apply to the wall,,,THEN after covering, go back over in multiple directions GENTLY. Any decent paint,,,given proper flow and dry time, allowing air bubble to also resolve, should look like it was a spray job. I also suggest for brushes or rollers, wet them first and remove excess water. In a brush especially that will allow that paint won't collect and harden in the heel of the brush as rapidly. Then too I rinse my paint equipment often, to avoid ';buildup';
I also could assume 3/8 isn't giving you enough coverage the first time. Perhaps you're going over the same area more than once?
I'd switch up to a half inch nap,,, unless you want a glass like surface, in which case I might try the foam roller covers, whcih I have great success with. ';Texture'; is a natural byproduct of rolling, but lines, streaks overlap runs can be eliminated easily.
Another suggestion, not strictly related. If you have to apply a second coat,,,please wait until the first is completely dry. The issue is that you'd likely be PULLING paint from the first coat, causing even more visible texturing.
Rev. Steven
Then you are using too much paint on the roller if you are getting streaks. Either that or you are using a really crappy roller. Get paint on the roller, roll it once or twice on the pan, then try to paint the wall.
Painting....is the easiest and cheapest way of creating a better living space and protecting ourselves and our home.....it also seems to be the most misunderstood function a homeowner can take on. Some basic rules of thumb to make the job easier for inside or outside painting are;
1)When estimating amount of paint needed, measure the walls length and height, multiply them and get the total square footage. For instance, if the wall height is 7.5 feet, always round up for ease of math to 8 and if the wall is 10 feet long, that’s 80 square feet. Now if the room has four equal walls, that’s an easy equation, just take 80 x 4 and forget the windows and door ways, just keep it simple and multiply to get the total square footage of the walls, and in this case it’s 320 sf. If the ceiling is to be painted, measure the wall length on the short and long walls. A 15 by 20 room would be 300 sf, a 10 x 10 room would be 100 square feet. So, a 10 x10 room with 8 foot high walls would equal 320 sf of wall surface and 100 sf of ceiling, that’s a total of 420 square feet of surface to paint. Each paint manufacturer lists on the can how many square feet of coverage you can expect per gallon. Using that information and the fact that no matter how you paint, you’ll always need two coats, then you will need two gallons for the 10 x 10 room in the example.
2)When painting against moldings or door and window trim, tape the joint with blue tape. Make sure to burnish the tape so it sticks well. Do this to the entire area you have taped. Then, using some acrylic/latex caulking, put a thin bead on the edge of the tape where it meets the trim. Smooth it out ensuring good coverage and let it dry, usually for a bout 2 hours. Once it is dry, paint the edge covering the tape and the caulking. When you’re finished painting, remove the tape and you’ll have a perfectly trimmed molding, door or window casing.
3)When painting with a roller (1/2'; nap), use a roller pan and load your roller often and keep it full of paint. A big mistake a lot of people make is not using enough paint. Load up your roller or brush with paint constantly. If you’re thinking you want to minimize the amount of paint you’re going to use to save moeny, remember, they won’t take a premixed color back if you have any leftover, so you might as well use it all! You’ll find it a lot easier to paint if you keep your brush or roller full.
4)Cutting in with a brush is a difficult task for many people to master. A general rule of thumb is to keep your brush full of paint and drag the bristles across the edge of your work creating a bead of paint that moves with the bristles. It’s difficult to do, but with a little practice on the wall before you paint, you can create some nice straight lines. But if you just can’t get it down, try the tip above.
5)Always prime outside bare wood. This cannot be stressed enough. Whether it is a fence, a shed or the house, any outside wood, especially non-pressure treated wood MUST be primed first. The primer penetrates the surface of the wood and bonds to the wood best. I prefer an oil based primer, then a latex top coat. And remember, once the wood is primed, you only have a couple of weeks to get a top coat on the surface, check with the manufacturer and read the label. One last note, priming over existing paint is a waste of time and money. Primer is made for bare wood.
6)A good acrylic/latex caulk and lightweight spackle are a best friend for those painting a room. The caulking can be used to fill in unsightly joints and cracks, equal to or less than ¼”. And spackle can be used to fill in nails holes and also as a gap filler. Scraping the walls with a 6 in metal drywall knife is a good practice too, removing bumps and peeled paint.
I hope this information is valuable and helps you. I can be reached at rentahandyman@yahoo.com if you have any further questions.
Use a spray gun.
My husband is a painter and I have done lots of painting myself and you do not have enough paint on your roller,what they call dry rolling.You do need to get some access paint off your roller so that it don't drip but not to much. You also want to roll the opposite way of which your roller is facing because some paint will seep from the back side of roller and will leave marks,but if you roll the other way the roller will pick those marks up and give you a smooth look.
Apply the paint in an X fashion,crisscrossing to cover the surface. Work an area about 2 foot wide. Then start again at the top and roll down 1 roller width at a time overlapping an inch or so.
Use a roller cover with short nap, like 1/4 inch or less. Roll all directions, not just up and down. Keep the ends of the roller cover as clean as you can, without alot of excess paint. If the roller cover doesn't fit the handle well it can allow paint to go INSIDE the roller cover and come back out when rolling leaving a thick place. If it is not a very large area you might consider using a brush instead of a roller.How to paint without having the roller streaks left. I want a smooth finish without roller marks. thanks?
After applying thousands of gallons of paint, I offer this.
Too much paint on the nap, and too long a time spent in the process in each area, perhaps.
The paint issue is easy to solve, just roll off excess, in the tray or 5 gal. bucket Grid, and apply to the wall,,,THEN after covering, go back over in multiple directions GENTLY. Any decent paint,,,given proper flow and dry time, allowing air bubble to also resolve, should look like it was a spray job. I also suggest for brushes or rollers, wet them first and remove excess water. In a brush especially that will allow that paint won't collect and harden in the heel of the brush as rapidly. Then too I rinse my paint equipment often, to avoid ';buildup';
I also could assume 3/8 isn't giving you enough coverage the first time. Perhaps you're going over the same area more than once?
I'd switch up to a half inch nap,,, unless you want a glass like surface, in which case I might try the foam roller covers, whcih I have great success with. ';Texture'; is a natural byproduct of rolling, but lines, streaks overlap runs can be eliminated easily.
Another suggestion, not strictly related. If you have to apply a second coat,,,please wait until the first is completely dry. The issue is that you'd likely be PULLING paint from the first coat, causing even more visible texturing.
Rev. Steven
Then you are using too much paint on the roller if you are getting streaks. Either that or you are using a really crappy roller. Get paint on the roller, roll it once or twice on the pan, then try to paint the wall.
Painting....is the easiest and cheapest way of creating a better living space and protecting ourselves and our home.....it also seems to be the most misunderstood function a homeowner can take on. Some basic rules of thumb to make the job easier for inside or outside painting are;
1)When estimating amount of paint needed, measure the walls length and height, multiply them and get the total square footage. For instance, if the wall height is 7.5 feet, always round up for ease of math to 8 and if the wall is 10 feet long, that’s 80 square feet. Now if the room has four equal walls, that’s an easy equation, just take 80 x 4 and forget the windows and door ways, just keep it simple and multiply to get the total square footage of the walls, and in this case it’s 320 sf. If the ceiling is to be painted, measure the wall length on the short and long walls. A 15 by 20 room would be 300 sf, a 10 x 10 room would be 100 square feet. So, a 10 x10 room with 8 foot high walls would equal 320 sf of wall surface and 100 sf of ceiling, that’s a total of 420 square feet of surface to paint. Each paint manufacturer lists on the can how many square feet of coverage you can expect per gallon. Using that information and the fact that no matter how you paint, you’ll always need two coats, then you will need two gallons for the 10 x 10 room in the example.
2)When painting against moldings or door and window trim, tape the joint with blue tape. Make sure to burnish the tape so it sticks well. Do this to the entire area you have taped. Then, using some acrylic/latex caulking, put a thin bead on the edge of the tape where it meets the trim. Smooth it out ensuring good coverage and let it dry, usually for a bout 2 hours. Once it is dry, paint the edge covering the tape and the caulking. When you’re finished painting, remove the tape and you’ll have a perfectly trimmed molding, door or window casing.
3)When painting with a roller (1/2'; nap), use a roller pan and load your roller often and keep it full of paint. A big mistake a lot of people make is not using enough paint. Load up your roller or brush with paint constantly. If you’re thinking you want to minimize the amount of paint you’re going to use to save moeny, remember, they won’t take a premixed color back if you have any leftover, so you might as well use it all! You’ll find it a lot easier to paint if you keep your brush or roller full.
4)Cutting in with a brush is a difficult task for many people to master. A general rule of thumb is to keep your brush full of paint and drag the bristles across the edge of your work creating a bead of paint that moves with the bristles. It’s difficult to do, but with a little practice on the wall before you paint, you can create some nice straight lines. But if you just can’t get it down, try the tip above.
5)Always prime outside bare wood. This cannot be stressed enough. Whether it is a fence, a shed or the house, any outside wood, especially non-pressure treated wood MUST be primed first. The primer penetrates the surface of the wood and bonds to the wood best. I prefer an oil based primer, then a latex top coat. And remember, once the wood is primed, you only have a couple of weeks to get a top coat on the surface, check with the manufacturer and read the label. One last note, priming over existing paint is a waste of time and money. Primer is made for bare wood.
6)A good acrylic/latex caulk and lightweight spackle are a best friend for those painting a room. The caulking can be used to fill in unsightly joints and cracks, equal to or less than ¼”. And spackle can be used to fill in nails holes and also as a gap filler. Scraping the walls with a 6 in metal drywall knife is a good practice too, removing bumps and peeled paint.
I hope this information is valuable and helps you. I can be reached at rentahandyman@yahoo.com if you have any further questions.
Use a spray gun.
My husband is a painter and I have done lots of painting myself and you do not have enough paint on your roller,what they call dry rolling.You do need to get some access paint off your roller so that it don't drip but not to much. You also want to roll the opposite way of which your roller is facing because some paint will seep from the back side of roller and will leave marks,but if you roll the other way the roller will pick those marks up and give you a smooth look.
Apply the paint in an X fashion,crisscrossing to cover the surface. Work an area about 2 foot wide. Then start again at the top and roll down 1 roller width at a time overlapping an inch or so.
If you leave paint brushes and rollers in the fridge between use will it contaminate the food?
I've been a painter for about 30years. When I started we painted a lot of apartments. We used to leave brushes in the refrigerator over night. as long as you wrap them in plastic or place in a plastic bag there should be no problem. If using the brush more than a two days I'd recommend cleaning them at the end of the second day. For 1-2 days no problem. Another tip that will make using the brush easier is this. Always paint out of a work pot. In other words never paint out of a full bucket. The paint should never be deeper than 1/2 the length of the bristles. That way you don't get paint all over the bristles and handle. It is easier to work with and easier to clean later. Not only that you will not have paint dripping down your hand. Any other painting tips you need just contact me. Best of Luck!If you leave paint brushes and rollers in the fridge between use will it contaminate the food?
if you wrap them in plastic wrap there should be no problemhuman hair
if you wrap them in plastic wrap there should be no problem
While painting the bathroom popcorned ceiling with a roller. Big pieces of ceiling pealing off. Suggestions ?
I don't want to use a spray gun ( I am not an expert painter ).
Any suggestion is appreciated.While painting the bathroom popcorned ceiling with a roller. Big pieces of ceiling pealing off. Suggestions ?
We've had some loose pieces of popcorn ceiling as well. I'd say first see if you can fit them back on. We glued ours back in place and you can't tell. If it's too late for this Lowe's has several different kits, sprays %26amp; patching options. They can help you choose the right patch to repair your damage.While painting the bathroom popcorned ceiling with a roller. Big pieces of ceiling pealing off. Suggestions ?
Scrape off the popcorn and put up some other kind of texture. It's easy to do, but messy.
You have to first wet the popcorn with a spray of water (you can get a decent lawn/garden sprayer for about $20). Spray the popcorn with the water (until just damp) and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Use about a 4-inch-wide scraper to scrape the popcorn away, being careful not to gouge the ceiling too much. Professional popcorn removers use a device with a plastic (trash) bag attached that catches the scraped off popcorn, which will be the consistency of wet cereal (this is the messy part).
When it's all removed, you can texture it any way you want using drywall mud - even just smooth. Then lightly sand with a drywall sander (hand-held sanding block that you attach sanding screens to - they don't clog up with drywall powder), wipe off excess dust with a damp cloth, let dry completely, and then prime and paint.
As soon as popcorn gets wet it falls off - I too found out the hard way. You can't roll paint onto a popcorn ceiling. You can use a paint sprayer but you have to cover everything in the room... or you can spritz the popcorn with water and scrape off all the popcorn, then use a roller to paint the bare ceiling... and you might have to do repairs to the ceiling.
well painting a popcorned ceiling seems like a bad idea anyways. i would say go with the sprayer, hire a professional, or get an updated ceiling.
Scrape it off. You can get DIY instructions online.
Any suggestion is appreciated.While painting the bathroom popcorned ceiling with a roller. Big pieces of ceiling pealing off. Suggestions ?
We've had some loose pieces of popcorn ceiling as well. I'd say first see if you can fit them back on. We glued ours back in place and you can't tell. If it's too late for this Lowe's has several different kits, sprays %26amp; patching options. They can help you choose the right patch to repair your damage.While painting the bathroom popcorned ceiling with a roller. Big pieces of ceiling pealing off. Suggestions ?
Scrape off the popcorn and put up some other kind of texture. It's easy to do, but messy.
You have to first wet the popcorn with a spray of water (you can get a decent lawn/garden sprayer for about $20). Spray the popcorn with the water (until just damp) and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Use about a 4-inch-wide scraper to scrape the popcorn away, being careful not to gouge the ceiling too much. Professional popcorn removers use a device with a plastic (trash) bag attached that catches the scraped off popcorn, which will be the consistency of wet cereal (this is the messy part).
When it's all removed, you can texture it any way you want using drywall mud - even just smooth. Then lightly sand with a drywall sander (hand-held sanding block that you attach sanding screens to - they don't clog up with drywall powder), wipe off excess dust with a damp cloth, let dry completely, and then prime and paint.
As soon as popcorn gets wet it falls off - I too found out the hard way. You can't roll paint onto a popcorn ceiling. You can use a paint sprayer but you have to cover everything in the room... or you can spritz the popcorn with water and scrape off all the popcorn, then use a roller to paint the bare ceiling... and you might have to do repairs to the ceiling.
well painting a popcorned ceiling seems like a bad idea anyways. i would say go with the sprayer, hire a professional, or get an updated ceiling.
Scrape it off. You can get DIY instructions online.
Painting a concrete patio: sprayer vs roller?
Hello all,
I am going to try and paint my concrete patio. I've read on here where some people used the pest sprayers and mixed their concrete paint in it and then sprayed the concrete. Has anyone else ever used a roller and painted the concrete (with concrete paint) the same way as you would paint a wall? Any info or help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks guys!Painting a concrete patio: sprayer vs roller?
You would paint the concrete patio with a ';floor'; paint suitable for use on interior or exterior concrete depending on your situation (i.e. if the patio is enclosed and covered or exposed to the elements).
Floor paints are almost always applied with a roller, and the roller will push the paint into the pores of the concrete which is one thing a sprayer won't do.
I have painted many cement or concrete floors with various floor paints from 2 part epoxies to latex and oil floor paints - and have always rolled them.Painting a concrete patio: sprayer vs roller?
Use a roller and a brush for work close to the house. You'll end up with paint all over if you try to use a sprayer for this project. Be sure you buy the appropriate type of paint for concrete and clean it thoroughly as recommended by the manufacturer of the paint.
Some concrete stains are applied by sprayer but caution is taken so the stain won't get on other objects.
deffinatly use a roller! here is a little warning though. paint on floors inside or out are extremely SLIPPERY when wet. and they will continue to be dangerous until the paint wears away.
Try adding about 1 cup of sand to the gallon of paint and mix well. you can buy colord sand at most doller stores!
Roller. You can ensure an even coating.
I would not use a pest sprayer for paint as paint is too thick and can clog it. Additionally, it can cause health risks for the people who use it.
Roller!! The slightest breeze and you paint the lawn with a sprayer (or worse, the side of the house!)
roller or sprayer
I am going to try and paint my concrete patio. I've read on here where some people used the pest sprayers and mixed their concrete paint in it and then sprayed the concrete. Has anyone else ever used a roller and painted the concrete (with concrete paint) the same way as you would paint a wall? Any info or help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks guys!Painting a concrete patio: sprayer vs roller?
You would paint the concrete patio with a ';floor'; paint suitable for use on interior or exterior concrete depending on your situation (i.e. if the patio is enclosed and covered or exposed to the elements).
Floor paints are almost always applied with a roller, and the roller will push the paint into the pores of the concrete which is one thing a sprayer won't do.
I have painted many cement or concrete floors with various floor paints from 2 part epoxies to latex and oil floor paints - and have always rolled them.Painting a concrete patio: sprayer vs roller?
Use a roller and a brush for work close to the house. You'll end up with paint all over if you try to use a sprayer for this project. Be sure you buy the appropriate type of paint for concrete and clean it thoroughly as recommended by the manufacturer of the paint.
Some concrete stains are applied by sprayer but caution is taken so the stain won't get on other objects.
deffinatly use a roller! here is a little warning though. paint on floors inside or out are extremely SLIPPERY when wet. and they will continue to be dangerous until the paint wears away.
Try adding about 1 cup of sand to the gallon of paint and mix well. you can buy colord sand at most doller stores!
Roller. You can ensure an even coating.
I would not use a pest sprayer for paint as paint is too thick and can clog it. Additionally, it can cause health risks for the people who use it.
Roller!! The slightest breeze and you paint the lawn with a sprayer (or worse, the side of the house!)
roller or sprayer
How can i remove roller brush hairs from a painted wall?
Hi, i made the mistake of using a cheap roller, and now i can see tiny hairs in the paint on my wall. is there a way of removing these hairs with the minimum of fuss?How can i remove roller brush hairs from a painted wall?
Take some medium grit oxide sandpaper (or fine grit if your walls are not flat painted) and just barely run it over the hairs. This should easily remove them. If there are lots of them, then you can purchase a drywall sanding head, attach it to a sanding pole, and gently whisk it over your walls. This should remove the majority of the hairs. If you see any areas that have been dulled from sanding with too much pressure, you can simply touch up paint those spots, which takes very little time. Just don't repaint with that same roller :) How can i remove roller brush hairs from a painted wall?
thanks so much for the response guys. I tryed sanding the wall lightly with fine sandpaper, and hey presto the hairs come flying off like a gay mans trousers! this site is really cool, and peoplee here are so helpfull. thanks
Nope. Rub down and do it again with a decent sleeve. whenever im using a new sleeve i run my hand over it to remove any loose hairs prior to using it.
Are they sticking out? I think you could use a clean flame to burn them off without scorching,or if there embedded with clumps I would scrape an start anew, Does it look really bad? You might paint over with texture roller..
You might to repaint using a different fiber, next time use tape to remove excess hairs.
Take some medium grit oxide sandpaper (or fine grit if your walls are not flat painted) and just barely run it over the hairs. This should easily remove them. If there are lots of them, then you can purchase a drywall sanding head, attach it to a sanding pole, and gently whisk it over your walls. This should remove the majority of the hairs. If you see any areas that have been dulled from sanding with too much pressure, you can simply touch up paint those spots, which takes very little time. Just don't repaint with that same roller :) How can i remove roller brush hairs from a painted wall?
thanks so much for the response guys. I tryed sanding the wall lightly with fine sandpaper, and hey presto the hairs come flying off like a gay mans trousers! this site is really cool, and peoplee here are so helpfull. thanks
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Nope. Rub down and do it again with a decent sleeve. whenever im using a new sleeve i run my hand over it to remove any loose hairs prior to using it.
Are they sticking out? I think you could use a clean flame to burn them off without scorching,or if there embedded with clumps I would scrape an start anew, Does it look really bad? You might paint over with texture roller..
You might to repaint using a different fiber, next time use tape to remove excess hairs.
What's your opinion o the PAINT BUDDY Roller?
Paint Buddy is a touch-up paint roller with onboard paint storage. After painting a room, the user stores excess paint from the project in a Rubbermaid Paint Buddy and labels the cap with room and color information. Later, when a wall needs a minor touch-up, the user simply removes the clear cap, opens the valve and applies the paint to the area with the built-in roller.
You can view it here
http://www.paintbuddy.com/shurline/consumer/paintbuddy/index.jhtml;jsessionid=RTOTULGJWV0XOCQHUBSCF3QKA4QHQJCKWhat's your opinion o the PAINT BUDDY Roller?
I think after one use it would plug up with dried paint between the storage reservoir and the roller. Also the roller would not get clean enough to work smoothly the next time. It would have chunks of dried paint on it. I wouldn't buy one.
You can view it here
http://www.paintbuddy.com/shurline/consumer/paintbuddy/index.jhtml;jsessionid=RTOTULGJWV0XOCQHUBSCF3QKA4QHQJCKWhat's your opinion o the PAINT BUDDY Roller?
I think after one use it would plug up with dried paint between the storage reservoir and the roller. Also the roller would not get clean enough to work smoothly the next time. It would have chunks of dried paint on it. I wouldn't buy one.
Ceiling H2O damage. Kilzed. Painted 5 times with roller but sunlight shows streaks. Flat paint no texture?
Streaks not just where we used Kilz but on whole ceiling. Used roller with pole. Should we use roller by hand? Given up rolling in straight lines and am now crisscrossing and using a ton of paint.Ceiling H2O damage. Kilzed. Painted 5 times with roller but sunlight shows streaks. Flat paint no texture?
I always paint in W's.
I always paint in W's.
Painting rooms in house, ideas on paint and brushes and rollers?
My regular painter was supposed to come around Thanksgiving, still isn't returning calls, so I decided to attempt this on my own.
I normally go to Sherwan Williams, but their hours are not convenient for me and I usually get home too late and have to wait for weekend, we have a new lowes store, so I thought I would try it there. Definitely don't want to do wal-mart or kmart.
Is Lowe's going to offer a good paint? I believe they said Valspar is the best. They said that Martha, Eddie Bauer, etc. was not better you were just paying for the name.
Also, how do I make sure I am getting good brushes and rollers that I won't regret it later?
I've seen the rollers where you can put paint in the handle, do those work or save time or anything?
thanks so much!Painting rooms in house, ideas on paint and brushes and rollers?
ive definately bought my share of paint from these places.
i like olympic from lowes. i dont care for behr at home depot and you are paying for the name. yes, you are paying for the name for martha and whatnot.
advice on brushes: SPEND MONEY on them... i always used to buy crappy cheap ones and spending $15 on a GOOD angle brush makes SUCH a difference in cutting in edges O-M-G! Wash them immediately after using and you will see they last you so long. The rollers I havent spent a lot on but i still havent found a good one yet. not sure i would waste money on the one filled with paint. I do like the smaller rollers too..they are really nice for cutting close and doing small areas.Painting rooms in house, ideas on paint and brushes and rollers?
I would suggest either Benjamin Moore paint or the Home Depot brand Behr...both are very good paints. I have used Sherman Williams (ever-clean) and its garbage..I have not tried Lowe's brand. Go with a flat or eggshell finish...it hides imperfections better. As far as brushes and rollers it depend on what type of surface you are painting. Ask one of the reps at the store, they are always more than happy to help. I would suggest using a 1 or 2 inch angle brush for the trim.
I have painted my interior. I have used Home Depot paint. Eggshell Behr is the brand, excellent paint. Anyone working in the area should be able to help you with the accessories to paint with. There are different rollers to cover surfaces. If you have orange peel texture you should get a semi-smooth roller
Hope this helps.
Lowes will have everything you need. Valspar is good paint. Usually the rule of thumb with brushes is the more expensive they are the better quality bristle they will have, you want a bristle that is soft and pliable, I would guess a good brush will run you around $18, as far a rollers the same theory applies, get something with a medium nap that says i coat coverage. I would get yourself an edger also, there worth there weight in gold. I would also stay away from the paint in the handle deals.Hope this helps
Valspar is a good paint to use, as for brushes you want to use a 21\2 inch sash brush (angled brush) the Wooster brand is the best for cutting in and for doing trim. If you use oil base paint for your trim be sure to buy a brush made for oil paint. As for the roller pads use the lambs wool roller covers
these may be more expensive but give your paint job a smoother surface when done and they will last 4 times as long as the cheeper roller pads. Dont waste your money on the paint sticks....they dont work.human hair
I normally go to Sherwan Williams, but their hours are not convenient for me and I usually get home too late and have to wait for weekend, we have a new lowes store, so I thought I would try it there. Definitely don't want to do wal-mart or kmart.
Is Lowe's going to offer a good paint? I believe they said Valspar is the best. They said that Martha, Eddie Bauer, etc. was not better you were just paying for the name.
Also, how do I make sure I am getting good brushes and rollers that I won't regret it later?
I've seen the rollers where you can put paint in the handle, do those work or save time or anything?
thanks so much!Painting rooms in house, ideas on paint and brushes and rollers?
ive definately bought my share of paint from these places.
i like olympic from lowes. i dont care for behr at home depot and you are paying for the name. yes, you are paying for the name for martha and whatnot.
advice on brushes: SPEND MONEY on them... i always used to buy crappy cheap ones and spending $15 on a GOOD angle brush makes SUCH a difference in cutting in edges O-M-G! Wash them immediately after using and you will see they last you so long. The rollers I havent spent a lot on but i still havent found a good one yet. not sure i would waste money on the one filled with paint. I do like the smaller rollers too..they are really nice for cutting close and doing small areas.Painting rooms in house, ideas on paint and brushes and rollers?
I would suggest either Benjamin Moore paint or the Home Depot brand Behr...both are very good paints. I have used Sherman Williams (ever-clean) and its garbage..I have not tried Lowe's brand. Go with a flat or eggshell finish...it hides imperfections better. As far as brushes and rollers it depend on what type of surface you are painting. Ask one of the reps at the store, they are always more than happy to help. I would suggest using a 1 or 2 inch angle brush for the trim.
I have painted my interior. I have used Home Depot paint. Eggshell Behr is the brand, excellent paint. Anyone working in the area should be able to help you with the accessories to paint with. There are different rollers to cover surfaces. If you have orange peel texture you should get a semi-smooth roller
Hope this helps.
Lowes will have everything you need. Valspar is good paint. Usually the rule of thumb with brushes is the more expensive they are the better quality bristle they will have, you want a bristle that is soft and pliable, I would guess a good brush will run you around $18, as far a rollers the same theory applies, get something with a medium nap that says i coat coverage. I would get yourself an edger also, there worth there weight in gold. I would also stay away from the paint in the handle deals.Hope this helps
Valspar is a good paint to use, as for brushes you want to use a 21\2 inch sash brush (angled brush) the Wooster brand is the best for cutting in and for doing trim. If you use oil base paint for your trim be sure to buy a brush made for oil paint. As for the roller pads use the lambs wool roller covers
these may be more expensive but give your paint job a smoother surface when done and they will last 4 times as long as the cheeper roller pads. Dont waste your money on the paint sticks....they dont work.
Hi! Does anyone know where I can get a cutting-in roller? Trying to paint window frames.?
all hardware, paint stores and even big w stores
Paint Edger: This tool has guide wheels to make ';cutting in'; easier. It gives a sharp, clean edge along the ceiling line, baseboard and trim.
Corner Painter: This tool is shaped to paint corners with one stroke. Shaped to access awkward corners and edges.
Trim %26amp; Touch-Up Pad: This tool is used for trim, louvres, shutters and touch-ups. It is ideal for stains and varnish because it doesn't leave brush marks.
Pad Painter: This tool can be used inside or out and is ideal for painting smooth or rough surfaces. It makes painting faster and gives a neat, clean line.
Foam Brush: This tool is suitable for oil and water based paints and stains. Chisel tipped for detailed work.Hi! Does anyone know where I can get a cutting-in roller? Trying to paint window frames.?
Use a brush. Rollers can never be very accurate for detail.Hi! Does anyone know where I can get a cutting-in roller? Trying to paint window frames.?
go to home depot
Paint Edger: This tool has guide wheels to make ';cutting in'; easier. It gives a sharp, clean edge along the ceiling line, baseboard and trim.
Corner Painter: This tool is shaped to paint corners with one stroke. Shaped to access awkward corners and edges.
Trim %26amp; Touch-Up Pad: This tool is used for trim, louvres, shutters and touch-ups. It is ideal for stains and varnish because it doesn't leave brush marks.
Pad Painter: This tool can be used inside or out and is ideal for painting smooth or rough surfaces. It makes painting faster and gives a neat, clean line.
Foam Brush: This tool is suitable for oil and water based paints and stains. Chisel tipped for detailed work.Hi! Does anyone know where I can get a cutting-in roller? Trying to paint window frames.?
Use a brush. Rollers can never be very accurate for detail.Hi! Does anyone know where I can get a cutting-in roller? Trying to paint window frames.?
go to home depot
I saw an AD on DIY Network for a concrete patio paint by the name of Roller Rock. can you help?
Go to daichcoatings.com for info on RollerRockI saw an AD on DIY Network for a concrete patio paint by the name of Roller Rock. can you help?
there is one by Fleck Stone called Fleck Stone Granite. I am pretty sure home depot carries it or one like it.
there is one by Fleck Stone called Fleck Stone Granite. I am pretty sure home depot carries it or one like it.
Spraying,brush or roller painting an old fence.?
Hi there, i've got a very old untreated hardwood fence that i will have to paint sometime soon, i will be using fence paint , the thing is i dont know if i should buy one of those cheap spray guns from Bunnings, or if i should paint the fence with a fence brush or a small roller, will i be able to use the spraygun with fence paint? which method uses the least amount of paint? which method is the guickest?Spraying,brush or roller painting an old fence.?
I would say the spray gun would be the cheapest, quickest method. You have to put a thinner in the paint sometimes the stores will put it in for you without any extra cost. You will need to staple cardboard on the backside of what you are painting or lean a piece of plywood against it so the paint doesn't go everywhere. I personally like the look of rolled on paint trimmed with a brush. But something like a fence should still look good with a sprayer.Spraying,brush or roller painting an old fence.?
the spray is too messy.
we use brushes on our wood privacy fence - but if its never been painted it will really soak up that first coat.
I found the spray gun a total load of rubbish! Used a brush in the end and it took me four days!!! Fence looks like new now though so well pleased really!
I never had good luck with Rollers or sprayguns. They're very messy. Use a good 4'; brush. Spray guns are the quickest, but you won't like the results. Go slow, use a brush, and you'll be happy with the results. Where you going?? Do a good, slow job with a brush. Regards-Bob.
I would say the spray gun would be the cheapest, quickest method. You have to put a thinner in the paint sometimes the stores will put it in for you without any extra cost. You will need to staple cardboard on the backside of what you are painting or lean a piece of plywood against it so the paint doesn't go everywhere. I personally like the look of rolled on paint trimmed with a brush. But something like a fence should still look good with a sprayer.Spraying,brush or roller painting an old fence.?
the spray is too messy.
we use brushes on our wood privacy fence - but if its never been painted it will really soak up that first coat.
I found the spray gun a total load of rubbish! Used a brush in the end and it took me four days!!! Fence looks like new now though so well pleased really!
I never had good luck with Rollers or sprayguns. They're very messy. Use a good 4'; brush. Spray guns are the quickest, but you won't like the results. Go slow, use a brush, and you'll be happy with the results. Where you going?? Do a good, slow job with a brush. Regards-Bob.
Will washing out Latex paint brushes/rollers down drain wreck a septic system?
I have done tons of painting and have always washed my brushes, rollers, and painting supplies in the kitchen sink or the utility sink. I have never had a problem with the septic or the sewer system. do you know what's in a septic tank? I think it would decompose anything!!!!!!!!!!!! One thing I have heard not to wash down a sink drain is plaster of paris as it will plug up your drain system. Have fun painting!Will washing out Latex paint brushes/rollers down drain wreck a septic system?
washing them outside will cause more environmental harm!
Will washing out Latex paint brushes/rollers down drain wreck a septic system?
Kittykat where do you suggest doing that?
Professional painters that I know never reuse roller cartridges and them have fantastic results. They do wash out the paint brushes because they buy the really good ones ($10 or more) and if you're worried about the latex in the septic do it outside, it breaks down and is gone after a few weeks.
You should NOT do that! It is bad for the environment!!
washing them outside will cause more environmental harm!
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Will washing out Latex paint brushes/rollers down drain wreck a septic system?
Kittykat where do you suggest doing that?
Professional painters that I know never reuse roller cartridges and them have fantastic results. They do wash out the paint brushes because they buy the really good ones ($10 or more) and if you're worried about the latex in the septic do it outside, it breaks down and is gone after a few weeks.
You should NOT do that! It is bad for the environment!!
What is the best type of roller to put on emulsion paint?
lol you got it wrong its the type of surface your painting that counts
rough ..sheepskin
smooth ...foam
but you should be able to get away with sheepskin on smooth as wellWhat is the best type of roller to put on emulsion paint?
I should use a sheep skin for all types of surfaces,if you use a foam roller it some times pleats as you roll it.I always use a sheep skin roll for every thing that I paint...........good luck.What is the best type of roller to put on emulsion paint?
definitely sheepskin or if this is too expensive buy a synthetic sheepskin sleeve no other is as good.i only us foam roller sleeves when glossing but you have to be carefull not to put too much on at once(spread it out )
sheepskin roller for rough walls but if you want a really smooth finish i would recommend a steam roller
i prefer sheepskin, it holds more paint
rough ..sheepskin
smooth ...foam
but you should be able to get away with sheepskin on smooth as wellWhat is the best type of roller to put on emulsion paint?
I should use a sheep skin for all types of surfaces,if you use a foam roller it some times pleats as you roll it.I always use a sheep skin roll for every thing that I paint...........good luck.What is the best type of roller to put on emulsion paint?
definitely sheepskin or if this is too expensive buy a synthetic sheepskin sleeve no other is as good.i only us foam roller sleeves when glossing but you have to be carefull not to put too much on at once(spread it out )
sheepskin roller for rough walls but if you want a really smooth finish i would recommend a steam roller
i prefer sheepskin, it holds more paint
Painting with a roller (Red Paint)?
I did paint one wall of my living room with red paint and with a 3/8 roller, the color is perfect but I can not get rip of roller marks, I did paint two times already and still seen the marks... What can I do????Painting with a roller (Red Paint)?
Gently sand out the marks and when you paint again don' t put so much pressure on your roller .also get a new nap for your roller and keep it loaded so you don't have to push so hardPainting with a roller (Red Paint)?
If you can feel the ridge of roller marks,it wont disappear by more coats. You need to use a piece of sandpaper ,150 grit, green if can find as green wont gum up.roller marks are caused by pressing to hard when rolling. Dip more often and roll lightly.human hair
Gently sand out the marks and when you paint again don' t put so much pressure on your roller .also get a new nap for your roller and keep it loaded so you don't have to push so hardPainting with a roller (Red Paint)?
If you can feel the ridge of roller marks,it wont disappear by more coats. You need to use a piece of sandpaper ,150 grit, green if can find as green wont gum up.roller marks are caused by pressing to hard when rolling. Dip more often and roll lightly.
What's your opinion o the PAINT BUDDY Roller?
Paint Buddy is a touch-up paint roller with onboard paint storage. After painting a room, the user stores excess paint from the project in a Rubbermaid Paint Buddy and labels the cap with room and color information. Later, when a wall needs a minor touch-up, the user simply removes the clear cap, opens the valve and applies the paint to the area with the built-in roller.
You can view it here
http://www.paintbuddy.com/shurline/consumer/paintbuddy/index.jhtml;jsessionid=RTOTULGJWV0XOCQHUBSCF3QKA4QHQJCKWhat's your opinion o the PAINT BUDDY Roller?
It sounds like a good concept. But I tried products similar to this and they really haven't impressed me. This is more of a gadget and not a really innovative tool. Martha Stewart offered a tip to store paint in a glass mayonaise or baby food jar for touch ups. The container is free, you're recycling, and you can see the paint color through the glass. I would just use a small brush for touchups.
You can view it here
http://www.paintbuddy.com/shurline/consumer/paintbuddy/index.jhtml;jsessionid=RTOTULGJWV0XOCQHUBSCF3QKA4QHQJCKWhat's your opinion o the PAINT BUDDY Roller?
It sounds like a good concept. But I tried products similar to this and they really haven't impressed me. This is more of a gadget and not a really innovative tool. Martha Stewart offered a tip to store paint in a glass mayonaise or baby food jar for touch ups. The container is free, you're recycling, and you can see the paint color through the glass. I would just use a small brush for touchups.
Where can a get a roller for a paint mate?
its a black and deckerWhere can a get a roller for a paint mate?
Don't bother they're rubbishWhere can a get a roller for a paint mate?
Roller for a paint mate? I dont get you exactly, do you mean a roller arm and cage?
If so a mini roller form any diy shop will be fine, just keep it for use with oil based only.
You could try eBay
Don't bother they're rubbishWhere can a get a roller for a paint mate?
Roller for a paint mate? I dont get you exactly, do you mean a roller arm and cage?
If so a mini roller form any diy shop will be fine, just keep it for use with oil based only.
You could try eBay
How do you easily clean a roller after painting?
I have just finished painting and I plan on painting the same thing tomorrow, how do i clean the roller quickly and easily??How do you easily clean a roller after painting?
i just put the whole roller and handle in a plastic shopping bag and toss it in the freezer over night. make sure the bag doesn't have any holes in it, twist it around the metal bar on the roller handle, then pull the handles of the bag between the roller cover and the roller handle. also, i try to leave the roller cover kind of ';wet'; with paint, so the cover if about as full as it would be after you finish rolling it out in the paint tray, before i place it in the bag. in the morning, or whenever i am about ready to get back to the project, i just pull it out of the freezer, and place it in the sink for about an hour or so, while i start to set up the room to work in. the only thing i do is to roll it in fresh paint in the tray and roll it out a few times before i start using it again. this even works for up to a few weeks time, if you have to empty out a room and then move everything back in, before you start the next room.
also, check out roller spinners at the paint or hardware store, that is what the pro's use. they go for about $20.00, and might be worth it, if you buy good roller covers and want to save them for reuse again. they allow you to wash out the cover, then rinse it out several times to get all of the paint out. just be sure to do the spinning inside an empty 5 gallon pail so you don't spin the water all over the place,LOL! good luck, have fun, yeah, right. How do you easily clean a roller after painting?
Take a plastic grocery bag and stick the roller (leave on the roller carriage) into the bag then wrap the ends of the bag around the roller carriage handle to seal out the air.
Do not use aluminum foil. Aluminum sometimes reacts to the paint and leeches into the roller cover which will create little air bubbles that show up after you use the roller next time.
All you are doing is keeping the air from getting to the paint.
If you try to clean a roller cover you will think you have it all out, but the cover will never regain it's true shape or absorbtion qualities again.
Either throw it out or put it in a plastic bag like I mentioned.
Just unwrap roller when you are ready the next day and it will be fine.
This way if you are doing primer/paint of different colors, you can simply switch back and forth quickly. If you only have one roller carriage just use plastic sack to cover the roller as you pull it off the carriage - your hands never touch the roller cover. Rinse paint off carriage and put on the differenct color roller cover.
To make sure your roller carriage works properly - peal off any dried paint at the ends and run under hot water. This keeps dried paint out of the rod ends of the carriage so it will roll freely.
If you're going to paint again soon, don't wash the roller Wrap it tightly in plastic or tinfoil or both, it will be fine. I've had them last several weeks if they were wrapped tightly enough. I don't wash rollers any more, even when I'm finished the job. It takes an enormous amount of water, you often have to rinse them again a couple of times after the first clean, and even then they aren't so hot for the next use. Consider them disposable.
When I'm going to paint the next day, I just wrap my roller (wrap it REALLY well) in aluminum foil and stick it in the refrigerator. Works!
I promise!
Then when I'm done I just toss the roller and clean the holder with hot soapy water. ~That's after painting with latex paint. . . it's all I ever use.
Hope this helps you!
Some great answers for water based paint. If however it happens to be solvent based/ oil based then place the roller in a large bucket/pail of COLD water.
Next day shake off water in garden/backyard and continue painting.
If it isn't oil based paint, soap and water will do just fine. Put some soap on the roller and go up and down with your hand until it runs clear.
if water paint soak for an hour and blast with hose 5-10 minutes
if oil based soak in turps and shake wrap in a turps soaked rag
i just put the whole roller and handle in a plastic shopping bag and toss it in the freezer over night. make sure the bag doesn't have any holes in it, twist it around the metal bar on the roller handle, then pull the handles of the bag between the roller cover and the roller handle. also, i try to leave the roller cover kind of ';wet'; with paint, so the cover if about as full as it would be after you finish rolling it out in the paint tray, before i place it in the bag. in the morning, or whenever i am about ready to get back to the project, i just pull it out of the freezer, and place it in the sink for about an hour or so, while i start to set up the room to work in. the only thing i do is to roll it in fresh paint in the tray and roll it out a few times before i start using it again. this even works for up to a few weeks time, if you have to empty out a room and then move everything back in, before you start the next room.
also, check out roller spinners at the paint or hardware store, that is what the pro's use. they go for about $20.00, and might be worth it, if you buy good roller covers and want to save them for reuse again. they allow you to wash out the cover, then rinse it out several times to get all of the paint out. just be sure to do the spinning inside an empty 5 gallon pail so you don't spin the water all over the place,LOL! good luck, have fun, yeah, right. How do you easily clean a roller after painting?
Take a plastic grocery bag and stick the roller (leave on the roller carriage) into the bag then wrap the ends of the bag around the roller carriage handle to seal out the air.
Do not use aluminum foil. Aluminum sometimes reacts to the paint and leeches into the roller cover which will create little air bubbles that show up after you use the roller next time.
All you are doing is keeping the air from getting to the paint.
If you try to clean a roller cover you will think you have it all out, but the cover will never regain it's true shape or absorbtion qualities again.
Either throw it out or put it in a plastic bag like I mentioned.
Just unwrap roller when you are ready the next day and it will be fine.
This way if you are doing primer/paint of different colors, you can simply switch back and forth quickly. If you only have one roller carriage just use plastic sack to cover the roller as you pull it off the carriage - your hands never touch the roller cover. Rinse paint off carriage and put on the differenct color roller cover.
To make sure your roller carriage works properly - peal off any dried paint at the ends and run under hot water. This keeps dried paint out of the rod ends of the carriage so it will roll freely.
If you're going to paint again soon, don't wash the roller Wrap it tightly in plastic or tinfoil or both, it will be fine. I've had them last several weeks if they were wrapped tightly enough. I don't wash rollers any more, even when I'm finished the job. It takes an enormous amount of water, you often have to rinse them again a couple of times after the first clean, and even then they aren't so hot for the next use. Consider them disposable.
When I'm going to paint the next day, I just wrap my roller (wrap it REALLY well) in aluminum foil and stick it in the refrigerator. Works!
I promise!
Then when I'm done I just toss the roller and clean the holder with hot soapy water. ~That's after painting with latex paint. . . it's all I ever use.
Hope this helps you!
Some great answers for water based paint. If however it happens to be solvent based/ oil based then place the roller in a large bucket/pail of COLD water.
Next day shake off water in garden/backyard and continue painting.
If it isn't oil based paint, soap and water will do just fine. Put some soap on the roller and go up and down with your hand until it runs clear.
if water paint soak for an hour and blast with hose 5-10 minutes
if oil based soak in turps and shake wrap in a turps soaked rag
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